Canon EOS 800D vs 80D | Which one is better for macro photography?
I am looking to buy a new camera body primarily for Macro photography. I am currently shooting on a 2008 spec Canon EOS 450D, but want to upgrade. I have a budget of AUD$1000 and am looking at either a Canon EOS 800D or EOS 80D.
Which one is better for Macro photography and are there any other Canon models that are better at the sub $1000 AUD price point?
canon dslr macro canon-450d canon-80d
New contributor
|
show 4 more comments
I am looking to buy a new camera body primarily for Macro photography. I am currently shooting on a 2008 spec Canon EOS 450D, but want to upgrade. I have a budget of AUD$1000 and am looking at either a Canon EOS 800D or EOS 80D.
Which one is better for Macro photography and are there any other Canon models that are better at the sub $1000 AUD price point?
canon dslr macro canon-450d canon-80d
New contributor
1
I already have a Canon EF 100mm macro lens with IS.
– O Bhavsar
yesterday
4
So what about 450D + EF 100mm macro is not working for you?
– xiota
yesterday
3
@OBhavsar please include all relevant information in your question, rather than stringing a few extra bits into the comments.
– osullic
22 hours ago
1
@osullic Noted. I'm still pretty new to stack exchange
– O Bhavsar
22 hours ago
2
@OBhavsar you can edit your question with the info from the comments. Comments can then be deleted. And welcome to StackExchange!
– osullic
22 hours ago
|
show 4 more comments
I am looking to buy a new camera body primarily for Macro photography. I am currently shooting on a 2008 spec Canon EOS 450D, but want to upgrade. I have a budget of AUD$1000 and am looking at either a Canon EOS 800D or EOS 80D.
Which one is better for Macro photography and are there any other Canon models that are better at the sub $1000 AUD price point?
canon dslr macro canon-450d canon-80d
New contributor
I am looking to buy a new camera body primarily for Macro photography. I am currently shooting on a 2008 spec Canon EOS 450D, but want to upgrade. I have a budget of AUD$1000 and am looking at either a Canon EOS 800D or EOS 80D.
Which one is better for Macro photography and are there any other Canon models that are better at the sub $1000 AUD price point?
canon dslr macro canon-450d canon-80d
canon dslr macro canon-450d canon-80d
New contributor
New contributor
edited yesterday
xiota
8,55421449
8,55421449
New contributor
asked yesterday
O BhavsarO Bhavsar
133
133
New contributor
New contributor
1
I already have a Canon EF 100mm macro lens with IS.
– O Bhavsar
yesterday
4
So what about 450D + EF 100mm macro is not working for you?
– xiota
yesterday
3
@OBhavsar please include all relevant information in your question, rather than stringing a few extra bits into the comments.
– osullic
22 hours ago
1
@osullic Noted. I'm still pretty new to stack exchange
– O Bhavsar
22 hours ago
2
@OBhavsar you can edit your question with the info from the comments. Comments can then be deleted. And welcome to StackExchange!
– osullic
22 hours ago
|
show 4 more comments
1
I already have a Canon EF 100mm macro lens with IS.
– O Bhavsar
yesterday
4
So what about 450D + EF 100mm macro is not working for you?
– xiota
yesterday
3
@OBhavsar please include all relevant information in your question, rather than stringing a few extra bits into the comments.
– osullic
22 hours ago
1
@osullic Noted. I'm still pretty new to stack exchange
– O Bhavsar
22 hours ago
2
@OBhavsar you can edit your question with the info from the comments. Comments can then be deleted. And welcome to StackExchange!
– osullic
22 hours ago
1
1
I already have a Canon EF 100mm macro lens with IS.
– O Bhavsar
yesterday
I already have a Canon EF 100mm macro lens with IS.
– O Bhavsar
yesterday
4
4
So what about 450D + EF 100mm macro is not working for you?
– xiota
yesterday
So what about 450D + EF 100mm macro is not working for you?
– xiota
yesterday
3
3
@OBhavsar please include all relevant information in your question, rather than stringing a few extra bits into the comments.
– osullic
22 hours ago
@OBhavsar please include all relevant information in your question, rather than stringing a few extra bits into the comments.
– osullic
22 hours ago
1
1
@osullic Noted. I'm still pretty new to stack exchange
– O Bhavsar
22 hours ago
@osullic Noted. I'm still pretty new to stack exchange
– O Bhavsar
22 hours ago
2
2
@OBhavsar you can edit your question with the info from the comments. Comments can then be deleted. And welcome to StackExchange!
– osullic
22 hours ago
@OBhavsar you can edit your question with the info from the comments. Comments can then be deleted. And welcome to StackExchange!
– osullic
22 hours ago
|
show 4 more comments
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
Macro and close-up photography require having the correct lenses. Upgrading the body won't do much good. If you don't already have suitable lenses, the money would be better spent getting one.
Before upgrading the body, it would be helpful to first identify what is unsatisfactory about your current setup. Otherwise, you risk getting another camera with the same problems as your current one.
Personally, when I do closeup work, I prefer "Live View" with focus peaking. As far as I'm aware, Canon DSLRs do not have focus peaking without installing unsupported third-party firmware. So if I were in your situation, it would do no good to switch to another Canon DSLR. You can consider a mirrorless camera, where focus peaking is standard. However, because of the need for new lenses, it would likely be outside of your current budget.
If you are determined to get another Canon DSLR, you can decide by flipping a coin. As far as macro is concerned, you would be equally likely to be satisfied by either of the cameras you are currently considering.
Thank you for your help. Which mirrorless camera would you recommend for a budget under AUD$1000
– O Bhavsar
yesterday
1
If you want focus peaking in live view with Canon cameras, you can install the "Magic Lantern" third-party firmware.
– Logan Pickup
yesterday
Thanks Logan. Is there a website listing the steps to flashing it and a link to the download?
– O Bhavsar
23 hours ago
Magic Lantern
– xiota
22 hours ago
"The secret to happiness is low expectations." Consider passing on any equipment for which you have unusually high expectations.
– xiota
22 hours ago
|
show 1 more comment
Macro photography is all about the skill of the photographer, lenses, and lighting - in that order.
Only after the former have been considered should the differences between two APS-C cameras from the same manufacturer that appear to both use the same sensor be considered as a relatively minor difference.
The primary differences between the EOS Rebel T7i/800D and the EOS 80D are:
- The 80D has an additional control wheel on the back that allows faster handling, particularly in Manual exposure mode.
- The 80D allows AFMA (Autofocus Micro Adjustment), the Rebel T7i/800D does not.
- The 80D has a minimum exposure time of 1/8000 second, the Rebel T7i/700D has a minimum exposure time of 1/4000 second.
- The 80D has a larger viewfinder with 100% coverage and 0.95X magnification, compared to the Rebel T7i/800D's 95% coverage with only 0.82X magnification. In other words the 80D viewfinder will appear to be about 16% larger (21.375 x 14.155 mm) while showing the camera's full field of view, compared to the smaller viewfinder of the Rebel T7i/800D (18.45 x 12.29 mm) that only shows 95% of the camera's FoV. The 80D's viewfinder also has a brighter pentaprism vs the dimmer pentamirror of the Rebel T7i/800D and 3mm longer eye relief (22mm vs. 19mm).
- The 80D can shoot at 7 fps in burst mode, the Rebel T7i/800D maxes out at 6 fps.
- Both cameras have built-in Wi-Fi with NFC, only the Rebel T7i/800D also has Bluetooth.
- The 80D uses the 1865 mAh LP-E6N battery (shared by most of Canon's xD series cameras other than the 1D series) and has a higher battery rating than the Rebel T7i/800D that uses the 1040 mAh LP-E17 battery.
- The 80D has a shutter durability rating of 100,000 actuations. The Rebel T7i/800D does not have a published shutter durability rating.
None of these differences are directly applicable to shooting Macro photography in any significant way.
- Macro photography tends to be done very methodically, so the extra control wheel doesn't really make much of a difference.
- Most macro photography is done from a tripod using careful manual focus or Dual Pixel CMOS AF in Live View, so the lack of AFMA when doing PDAF via the viewfinder is a moot point. Much Macro photography is done using the lens' MFD (minimum focus distance) and then adjusting the camera to subject distance via a macro rail to bring the subject into focus.
- Macro photography usually struggles with having enough light, so the lack of 1/8000 second shutter time is not an issue.
- The differences between the viewfinders is not a consideration if you plan to use Live View, as many macro photographers do, since both cameras have the same rear LCD screen.
- Burst mode doesn't usually apply to macro photography unless one is photographing skittish insects or other moving subjects.
- Bluetooth (or lack thereof), battery life, and shutter durability ratings are not direct considerations for macro photography, but may be considerations for the total value of a camera to a buyer.
For doing Macro photography the way it is practiced by those who do the best Macro work, there's no real difference between the Canon EOS 80D and the Canon EOS Rebel T7i/800D.
I shoot Nikon, but another consideration is frame size. Both the 80D and 800D are crop sensors and macro is one place where, at least personally, I actually prefer to shoot crop over full frame. For the same composition you can shoot with a larger subject distance which gives you more depth of field at any given aperture, saving you precious light. It actually does get you better IQ over FF at the same sensor resolution if the lens itself is sufficiently sharp.
– J...
10 hours ago
@J... Well, sort of. MFD (minimum focus distance) of any particular lens will be the same whether it is mounted on a crop or FF camera. What changes is the angle of view. With a crop sensor you need a lens with a wider AoV to get the same framing at the same subject distance. If you are backing up to get the same framing as you would get with the same lens on a FF body then you are not using the MFD, and you're not getting MM and true 1:1 macro reproduction ratios. You're getting greater DoF because you are increasing the subject distance, but you're also decreasing magnification.
– Michael C
10 hours ago
Yes, but 1:1 isn't the whole story. I'll use my example of the D7100 (24MP DX) vs the D750 (24MP FF). 1:1 only tells you that the image at the sensor will be the same size as the real object. A 10mm spider will make a 10mm image. On a 36mm FF sensor that's 27% of the frame width. On a 24mm sensor it's 46% of the frame - and both sensors have the same number of pixels. The DX pixels are just smaller. At MFD the DX sensor gives you more magnification and more composition options (assuming the glass is good enough to not limit resolution). At the same FF comp, you just get more light.
– J...
7 hours ago
In other words, to get the same composition as the FF at MFD, the DX body actually has to back up - the DX can frame any macro shot that the FF can, and more. Backing up can also make lighting easier - a shot you might only have been able to light with ring on FF you might be able to clamshell with DX, for example. In natural light you get more angles to shoot from without being in your own shadow. It's the complete opposite of almost every other type of photography where the compositional advantages are all on DX instead of the other way around.
– J...
7 hours ago
add a comment |
The very general rule with Canon is that lower numbered models and higher numbered "marks" are better (and therefore more expensive). So 500D < 50D < 5D, and 5D Mark III < 5D Mark IV.
On the other hand, whether for example 7D Mark II is better than 5D Mark I is a much more complicated question, because some aspects of a recent model will typically have some better hardware than an older model with a lower number.
As a caveat I'd like to include some advice I got from a good photographer: unless your budget is massive you should prioritize spending your money on good lenses rather than a good body.
1
It might be worth saying that lower being better is true in so far as 80D being higher spec than 800D, but within the tens, hundreds and thousands higher numbers are newer models (e.g. 800D is newer and better than 700D). For single digit models like the 1D and 5D, the smaller numbers are generally more expensive/higher spec and newer releases are indicated by the mark number. expertreviews.co.uk/dslrs/1405777/… has a better explanation than I can fit in a comment.
– Nick Kennedy
23 hours ago
This is simply wrong, as it implies that the asker's existing 450D is better than the 800D they're considering buying as a replacement. And, really, it does nothing at all to answer the question. The question asks about suitability for macro work and you don't mention that at all.
– David Richerby
20 hours ago
Hence why I stated it as a "general rule," rather than an absolute. The vast majority of models are better than all the ones with higher numbers in Canon's case. As for macro work, like the accepted answer I mention that OP should prioritize lenses over cameras.
– l0b0
13 hours ago
add a comment |
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3 Answers
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Macro and close-up photography require having the correct lenses. Upgrading the body won't do much good. If you don't already have suitable lenses, the money would be better spent getting one.
Before upgrading the body, it would be helpful to first identify what is unsatisfactory about your current setup. Otherwise, you risk getting another camera with the same problems as your current one.
Personally, when I do closeup work, I prefer "Live View" with focus peaking. As far as I'm aware, Canon DSLRs do not have focus peaking without installing unsupported third-party firmware. So if I were in your situation, it would do no good to switch to another Canon DSLR. You can consider a mirrorless camera, where focus peaking is standard. However, because of the need for new lenses, it would likely be outside of your current budget.
If you are determined to get another Canon DSLR, you can decide by flipping a coin. As far as macro is concerned, you would be equally likely to be satisfied by either of the cameras you are currently considering.
Thank you for your help. Which mirrorless camera would you recommend for a budget under AUD$1000
– O Bhavsar
yesterday
1
If you want focus peaking in live view with Canon cameras, you can install the "Magic Lantern" third-party firmware.
– Logan Pickup
yesterday
Thanks Logan. Is there a website listing the steps to flashing it and a link to the download?
– O Bhavsar
23 hours ago
Magic Lantern
– xiota
22 hours ago
"The secret to happiness is low expectations." Consider passing on any equipment for which you have unusually high expectations.
– xiota
22 hours ago
|
show 1 more comment
Macro and close-up photography require having the correct lenses. Upgrading the body won't do much good. If you don't already have suitable lenses, the money would be better spent getting one.
Before upgrading the body, it would be helpful to first identify what is unsatisfactory about your current setup. Otherwise, you risk getting another camera with the same problems as your current one.
Personally, when I do closeup work, I prefer "Live View" with focus peaking. As far as I'm aware, Canon DSLRs do not have focus peaking without installing unsupported third-party firmware. So if I were in your situation, it would do no good to switch to another Canon DSLR. You can consider a mirrorless camera, where focus peaking is standard. However, because of the need for new lenses, it would likely be outside of your current budget.
If you are determined to get another Canon DSLR, you can decide by flipping a coin. As far as macro is concerned, you would be equally likely to be satisfied by either of the cameras you are currently considering.
Thank you for your help. Which mirrorless camera would you recommend for a budget under AUD$1000
– O Bhavsar
yesterday
1
If you want focus peaking in live view with Canon cameras, you can install the "Magic Lantern" third-party firmware.
– Logan Pickup
yesterday
Thanks Logan. Is there a website listing the steps to flashing it and a link to the download?
– O Bhavsar
23 hours ago
Magic Lantern
– xiota
22 hours ago
"The secret to happiness is low expectations." Consider passing on any equipment for which you have unusually high expectations.
– xiota
22 hours ago
|
show 1 more comment
Macro and close-up photography require having the correct lenses. Upgrading the body won't do much good. If you don't already have suitable lenses, the money would be better spent getting one.
Before upgrading the body, it would be helpful to first identify what is unsatisfactory about your current setup. Otherwise, you risk getting another camera with the same problems as your current one.
Personally, when I do closeup work, I prefer "Live View" with focus peaking. As far as I'm aware, Canon DSLRs do not have focus peaking without installing unsupported third-party firmware. So if I were in your situation, it would do no good to switch to another Canon DSLR. You can consider a mirrorless camera, where focus peaking is standard. However, because of the need for new lenses, it would likely be outside of your current budget.
If you are determined to get another Canon DSLR, you can decide by flipping a coin. As far as macro is concerned, you would be equally likely to be satisfied by either of the cameras you are currently considering.
Macro and close-up photography require having the correct lenses. Upgrading the body won't do much good. If you don't already have suitable lenses, the money would be better spent getting one.
Before upgrading the body, it would be helpful to first identify what is unsatisfactory about your current setup. Otherwise, you risk getting another camera with the same problems as your current one.
Personally, when I do closeup work, I prefer "Live View" with focus peaking. As far as I'm aware, Canon DSLRs do not have focus peaking without installing unsupported third-party firmware. So if I were in your situation, it would do no good to switch to another Canon DSLR. You can consider a mirrorless camera, where focus peaking is standard. However, because of the need for new lenses, it would likely be outside of your current budget.
If you are determined to get another Canon DSLR, you can decide by flipping a coin. As far as macro is concerned, you would be equally likely to be satisfied by either of the cameras you are currently considering.
edited 4 hours ago
answered yesterday
xiotaxiota
8,55421449
8,55421449
Thank you for your help. Which mirrorless camera would you recommend for a budget under AUD$1000
– O Bhavsar
yesterday
1
If you want focus peaking in live view with Canon cameras, you can install the "Magic Lantern" third-party firmware.
– Logan Pickup
yesterday
Thanks Logan. Is there a website listing the steps to flashing it and a link to the download?
– O Bhavsar
23 hours ago
Magic Lantern
– xiota
22 hours ago
"The secret to happiness is low expectations." Consider passing on any equipment for which you have unusually high expectations.
– xiota
22 hours ago
|
show 1 more comment
Thank you for your help. Which mirrorless camera would you recommend for a budget under AUD$1000
– O Bhavsar
yesterday
1
If you want focus peaking in live view with Canon cameras, you can install the "Magic Lantern" third-party firmware.
– Logan Pickup
yesterday
Thanks Logan. Is there a website listing the steps to flashing it and a link to the download?
– O Bhavsar
23 hours ago
Magic Lantern
– xiota
22 hours ago
"The secret to happiness is low expectations." Consider passing on any equipment for which you have unusually high expectations.
– xiota
22 hours ago
Thank you for your help. Which mirrorless camera would you recommend for a budget under AUD$1000
– O Bhavsar
yesterday
Thank you for your help. Which mirrorless camera would you recommend for a budget under AUD$1000
– O Bhavsar
yesterday
1
1
If you want focus peaking in live view with Canon cameras, you can install the "Magic Lantern" third-party firmware.
– Logan Pickup
yesterday
If you want focus peaking in live view with Canon cameras, you can install the "Magic Lantern" third-party firmware.
– Logan Pickup
yesterday
Thanks Logan. Is there a website listing the steps to flashing it and a link to the download?
– O Bhavsar
23 hours ago
Thanks Logan. Is there a website listing the steps to flashing it and a link to the download?
– O Bhavsar
23 hours ago
Magic Lantern
– xiota
22 hours ago
Magic Lantern
– xiota
22 hours ago
"The secret to happiness is low expectations." Consider passing on any equipment for which you have unusually high expectations.
– xiota
22 hours ago
"The secret to happiness is low expectations." Consider passing on any equipment for which you have unusually high expectations.
– xiota
22 hours ago
|
show 1 more comment
Macro photography is all about the skill of the photographer, lenses, and lighting - in that order.
Only after the former have been considered should the differences between two APS-C cameras from the same manufacturer that appear to both use the same sensor be considered as a relatively minor difference.
The primary differences between the EOS Rebel T7i/800D and the EOS 80D are:
- The 80D has an additional control wheel on the back that allows faster handling, particularly in Manual exposure mode.
- The 80D allows AFMA (Autofocus Micro Adjustment), the Rebel T7i/800D does not.
- The 80D has a minimum exposure time of 1/8000 second, the Rebel T7i/700D has a minimum exposure time of 1/4000 second.
- The 80D has a larger viewfinder with 100% coverage and 0.95X magnification, compared to the Rebel T7i/800D's 95% coverage with only 0.82X magnification. In other words the 80D viewfinder will appear to be about 16% larger (21.375 x 14.155 mm) while showing the camera's full field of view, compared to the smaller viewfinder of the Rebel T7i/800D (18.45 x 12.29 mm) that only shows 95% of the camera's FoV. The 80D's viewfinder also has a brighter pentaprism vs the dimmer pentamirror of the Rebel T7i/800D and 3mm longer eye relief (22mm vs. 19mm).
- The 80D can shoot at 7 fps in burst mode, the Rebel T7i/800D maxes out at 6 fps.
- Both cameras have built-in Wi-Fi with NFC, only the Rebel T7i/800D also has Bluetooth.
- The 80D uses the 1865 mAh LP-E6N battery (shared by most of Canon's xD series cameras other than the 1D series) and has a higher battery rating than the Rebel T7i/800D that uses the 1040 mAh LP-E17 battery.
- The 80D has a shutter durability rating of 100,000 actuations. The Rebel T7i/800D does not have a published shutter durability rating.
None of these differences are directly applicable to shooting Macro photography in any significant way.
- Macro photography tends to be done very methodically, so the extra control wheel doesn't really make much of a difference.
- Most macro photography is done from a tripod using careful manual focus or Dual Pixel CMOS AF in Live View, so the lack of AFMA when doing PDAF via the viewfinder is a moot point. Much Macro photography is done using the lens' MFD (minimum focus distance) and then adjusting the camera to subject distance via a macro rail to bring the subject into focus.
- Macro photography usually struggles with having enough light, so the lack of 1/8000 second shutter time is not an issue.
- The differences between the viewfinders is not a consideration if you plan to use Live View, as many macro photographers do, since both cameras have the same rear LCD screen.
- Burst mode doesn't usually apply to macro photography unless one is photographing skittish insects or other moving subjects.
- Bluetooth (or lack thereof), battery life, and shutter durability ratings are not direct considerations for macro photography, but may be considerations for the total value of a camera to a buyer.
For doing Macro photography the way it is practiced by those who do the best Macro work, there's no real difference between the Canon EOS 80D and the Canon EOS Rebel T7i/800D.
I shoot Nikon, but another consideration is frame size. Both the 80D and 800D are crop sensors and macro is one place where, at least personally, I actually prefer to shoot crop over full frame. For the same composition you can shoot with a larger subject distance which gives you more depth of field at any given aperture, saving you precious light. It actually does get you better IQ over FF at the same sensor resolution if the lens itself is sufficiently sharp.
– J...
10 hours ago
@J... Well, sort of. MFD (minimum focus distance) of any particular lens will be the same whether it is mounted on a crop or FF camera. What changes is the angle of view. With a crop sensor you need a lens with a wider AoV to get the same framing at the same subject distance. If you are backing up to get the same framing as you would get with the same lens on a FF body then you are not using the MFD, and you're not getting MM and true 1:1 macro reproduction ratios. You're getting greater DoF because you are increasing the subject distance, but you're also decreasing magnification.
– Michael C
10 hours ago
Yes, but 1:1 isn't the whole story. I'll use my example of the D7100 (24MP DX) vs the D750 (24MP FF). 1:1 only tells you that the image at the sensor will be the same size as the real object. A 10mm spider will make a 10mm image. On a 36mm FF sensor that's 27% of the frame width. On a 24mm sensor it's 46% of the frame - and both sensors have the same number of pixels. The DX pixels are just smaller. At MFD the DX sensor gives you more magnification and more composition options (assuming the glass is good enough to not limit resolution). At the same FF comp, you just get more light.
– J...
7 hours ago
In other words, to get the same composition as the FF at MFD, the DX body actually has to back up - the DX can frame any macro shot that the FF can, and more. Backing up can also make lighting easier - a shot you might only have been able to light with ring on FF you might be able to clamshell with DX, for example. In natural light you get more angles to shoot from without being in your own shadow. It's the complete opposite of almost every other type of photography where the compositional advantages are all on DX instead of the other way around.
– J...
7 hours ago
add a comment |
Macro photography is all about the skill of the photographer, lenses, and lighting - in that order.
Only after the former have been considered should the differences between two APS-C cameras from the same manufacturer that appear to both use the same sensor be considered as a relatively minor difference.
The primary differences between the EOS Rebel T7i/800D and the EOS 80D are:
- The 80D has an additional control wheel on the back that allows faster handling, particularly in Manual exposure mode.
- The 80D allows AFMA (Autofocus Micro Adjustment), the Rebel T7i/800D does not.
- The 80D has a minimum exposure time of 1/8000 second, the Rebel T7i/700D has a minimum exposure time of 1/4000 second.
- The 80D has a larger viewfinder with 100% coverage and 0.95X magnification, compared to the Rebel T7i/800D's 95% coverage with only 0.82X magnification. In other words the 80D viewfinder will appear to be about 16% larger (21.375 x 14.155 mm) while showing the camera's full field of view, compared to the smaller viewfinder of the Rebel T7i/800D (18.45 x 12.29 mm) that only shows 95% of the camera's FoV. The 80D's viewfinder also has a brighter pentaprism vs the dimmer pentamirror of the Rebel T7i/800D and 3mm longer eye relief (22mm vs. 19mm).
- The 80D can shoot at 7 fps in burst mode, the Rebel T7i/800D maxes out at 6 fps.
- Both cameras have built-in Wi-Fi with NFC, only the Rebel T7i/800D also has Bluetooth.
- The 80D uses the 1865 mAh LP-E6N battery (shared by most of Canon's xD series cameras other than the 1D series) and has a higher battery rating than the Rebel T7i/800D that uses the 1040 mAh LP-E17 battery.
- The 80D has a shutter durability rating of 100,000 actuations. The Rebel T7i/800D does not have a published shutter durability rating.
None of these differences are directly applicable to shooting Macro photography in any significant way.
- Macro photography tends to be done very methodically, so the extra control wheel doesn't really make much of a difference.
- Most macro photography is done from a tripod using careful manual focus or Dual Pixel CMOS AF in Live View, so the lack of AFMA when doing PDAF via the viewfinder is a moot point. Much Macro photography is done using the lens' MFD (minimum focus distance) and then adjusting the camera to subject distance via a macro rail to bring the subject into focus.
- Macro photography usually struggles with having enough light, so the lack of 1/8000 second shutter time is not an issue.
- The differences between the viewfinders is not a consideration if you plan to use Live View, as many macro photographers do, since both cameras have the same rear LCD screen.
- Burst mode doesn't usually apply to macro photography unless one is photographing skittish insects or other moving subjects.
- Bluetooth (or lack thereof), battery life, and shutter durability ratings are not direct considerations for macro photography, but may be considerations for the total value of a camera to a buyer.
For doing Macro photography the way it is practiced by those who do the best Macro work, there's no real difference between the Canon EOS 80D and the Canon EOS Rebel T7i/800D.
I shoot Nikon, but another consideration is frame size. Both the 80D and 800D are crop sensors and macro is one place where, at least personally, I actually prefer to shoot crop over full frame. For the same composition you can shoot with a larger subject distance which gives you more depth of field at any given aperture, saving you precious light. It actually does get you better IQ over FF at the same sensor resolution if the lens itself is sufficiently sharp.
– J...
10 hours ago
@J... Well, sort of. MFD (minimum focus distance) of any particular lens will be the same whether it is mounted on a crop or FF camera. What changes is the angle of view. With a crop sensor you need a lens with a wider AoV to get the same framing at the same subject distance. If you are backing up to get the same framing as you would get with the same lens on a FF body then you are not using the MFD, and you're not getting MM and true 1:1 macro reproduction ratios. You're getting greater DoF because you are increasing the subject distance, but you're also decreasing magnification.
– Michael C
10 hours ago
Yes, but 1:1 isn't the whole story. I'll use my example of the D7100 (24MP DX) vs the D750 (24MP FF). 1:1 only tells you that the image at the sensor will be the same size as the real object. A 10mm spider will make a 10mm image. On a 36mm FF sensor that's 27% of the frame width. On a 24mm sensor it's 46% of the frame - and both sensors have the same number of pixels. The DX pixels are just smaller. At MFD the DX sensor gives you more magnification and more composition options (assuming the glass is good enough to not limit resolution). At the same FF comp, you just get more light.
– J...
7 hours ago
In other words, to get the same composition as the FF at MFD, the DX body actually has to back up - the DX can frame any macro shot that the FF can, and more. Backing up can also make lighting easier - a shot you might only have been able to light with ring on FF you might be able to clamshell with DX, for example. In natural light you get more angles to shoot from without being in your own shadow. It's the complete opposite of almost every other type of photography where the compositional advantages are all on DX instead of the other way around.
– J...
7 hours ago
add a comment |
Macro photography is all about the skill of the photographer, lenses, and lighting - in that order.
Only after the former have been considered should the differences between two APS-C cameras from the same manufacturer that appear to both use the same sensor be considered as a relatively minor difference.
The primary differences between the EOS Rebel T7i/800D and the EOS 80D are:
- The 80D has an additional control wheel on the back that allows faster handling, particularly in Manual exposure mode.
- The 80D allows AFMA (Autofocus Micro Adjustment), the Rebel T7i/800D does not.
- The 80D has a minimum exposure time of 1/8000 second, the Rebel T7i/700D has a minimum exposure time of 1/4000 second.
- The 80D has a larger viewfinder with 100% coverage and 0.95X magnification, compared to the Rebel T7i/800D's 95% coverage with only 0.82X magnification. In other words the 80D viewfinder will appear to be about 16% larger (21.375 x 14.155 mm) while showing the camera's full field of view, compared to the smaller viewfinder of the Rebel T7i/800D (18.45 x 12.29 mm) that only shows 95% of the camera's FoV. The 80D's viewfinder also has a brighter pentaprism vs the dimmer pentamirror of the Rebel T7i/800D and 3mm longer eye relief (22mm vs. 19mm).
- The 80D can shoot at 7 fps in burst mode, the Rebel T7i/800D maxes out at 6 fps.
- Both cameras have built-in Wi-Fi with NFC, only the Rebel T7i/800D also has Bluetooth.
- The 80D uses the 1865 mAh LP-E6N battery (shared by most of Canon's xD series cameras other than the 1D series) and has a higher battery rating than the Rebel T7i/800D that uses the 1040 mAh LP-E17 battery.
- The 80D has a shutter durability rating of 100,000 actuations. The Rebel T7i/800D does not have a published shutter durability rating.
None of these differences are directly applicable to shooting Macro photography in any significant way.
- Macro photography tends to be done very methodically, so the extra control wheel doesn't really make much of a difference.
- Most macro photography is done from a tripod using careful manual focus or Dual Pixel CMOS AF in Live View, so the lack of AFMA when doing PDAF via the viewfinder is a moot point. Much Macro photography is done using the lens' MFD (minimum focus distance) and then adjusting the camera to subject distance via a macro rail to bring the subject into focus.
- Macro photography usually struggles with having enough light, so the lack of 1/8000 second shutter time is not an issue.
- The differences between the viewfinders is not a consideration if you plan to use Live View, as many macro photographers do, since both cameras have the same rear LCD screen.
- Burst mode doesn't usually apply to macro photography unless one is photographing skittish insects or other moving subjects.
- Bluetooth (or lack thereof), battery life, and shutter durability ratings are not direct considerations for macro photography, but may be considerations for the total value of a camera to a buyer.
For doing Macro photography the way it is practiced by those who do the best Macro work, there's no real difference between the Canon EOS 80D and the Canon EOS Rebel T7i/800D.
Macro photography is all about the skill of the photographer, lenses, and lighting - in that order.
Only after the former have been considered should the differences between two APS-C cameras from the same manufacturer that appear to both use the same sensor be considered as a relatively minor difference.
The primary differences between the EOS Rebel T7i/800D and the EOS 80D are:
- The 80D has an additional control wheel on the back that allows faster handling, particularly in Manual exposure mode.
- The 80D allows AFMA (Autofocus Micro Adjustment), the Rebel T7i/800D does not.
- The 80D has a minimum exposure time of 1/8000 second, the Rebel T7i/700D has a minimum exposure time of 1/4000 second.
- The 80D has a larger viewfinder with 100% coverage and 0.95X magnification, compared to the Rebel T7i/800D's 95% coverage with only 0.82X magnification. In other words the 80D viewfinder will appear to be about 16% larger (21.375 x 14.155 mm) while showing the camera's full field of view, compared to the smaller viewfinder of the Rebel T7i/800D (18.45 x 12.29 mm) that only shows 95% of the camera's FoV. The 80D's viewfinder also has a brighter pentaprism vs the dimmer pentamirror of the Rebel T7i/800D and 3mm longer eye relief (22mm vs. 19mm).
- The 80D can shoot at 7 fps in burst mode, the Rebel T7i/800D maxes out at 6 fps.
- Both cameras have built-in Wi-Fi with NFC, only the Rebel T7i/800D also has Bluetooth.
- The 80D uses the 1865 mAh LP-E6N battery (shared by most of Canon's xD series cameras other than the 1D series) and has a higher battery rating than the Rebel T7i/800D that uses the 1040 mAh LP-E17 battery.
- The 80D has a shutter durability rating of 100,000 actuations. The Rebel T7i/800D does not have a published shutter durability rating.
None of these differences are directly applicable to shooting Macro photography in any significant way.
- Macro photography tends to be done very methodically, so the extra control wheel doesn't really make much of a difference.
- Most macro photography is done from a tripod using careful manual focus or Dual Pixel CMOS AF in Live View, so the lack of AFMA when doing PDAF via the viewfinder is a moot point. Much Macro photography is done using the lens' MFD (minimum focus distance) and then adjusting the camera to subject distance via a macro rail to bring the subject into focus.
- Macro photography usually struggles with having enough light, so the lack of 1/8000 second shutter time is not an issue.
- The differences between the viewfinders is not a consideration if you plan to use Live View, as many macro photographers do, since both cameras have the same rear LCD screen.
- Burst mode doesn't usually apply to macro photography unless one is photographing skittish insects or other moving subjects.
- Bluetooth (or lack thereof), battery life, and shutter durability ratings are not direct considerations for macro photography, but may be considerations for the total value of a camera to a buyer.
For doing Macro photography the way it is practiced by those who do the best Macro work, there's no real difference between the Canon EOS 80D and the Canon EOS Rebel T7i/800D.
edited yesterday
answered yesterday
Michael CMichael C
128k7142362
128k7142362
I shoot Nikon, but another consideration is frame size. Both the 80D and 800D are crop sensors and macro is one place where, at least personally, I actually prefer to shoot crop over full frame. For the same composition you can shoot with a larger subject distance which gives you more depth of field at any given aperture, saving you precious light. It actually does get you better IQ over FF at the same sensor resolution if the lens itself is sufficiently sharp.
– J...
10 hours ago
@J... Well, sort of. MFD (minimum focus distance) of any particular lens will be the same whether it is mounted on a crop or FF camera. What changes is the angle of view. With a crop sensor you need a lens with a wider AoV to get the same framing at the same subject distance. If you are backing up to get the same framing as you would get with the same lens on a FF body then you are not using the MFD, and you're not getting MM and true 1:1 macro reproduction ratios. You're getting greater DoF because you are increasing the subject distance, but you're also decreasing magnification.
– Michael C
10 hours ago
Yes, but 1:1 isn't the whole story. I'll use my example of the D7100 (24MP DX) vs the D750 (24MP FF). 1:1 only tells you that the image at the sensor will be the same size as the real object. A 10mm spider will make a 10mm image. On a 36mm FF sensor that's 27% of the frame width. On a 24mm sensor it's 46% of the frame - and both sensors have the same number of pixels. The DX pixels are just smaller. At MFD the DX sensor gives you more magnification and more composition options (assuming the glass is good enough to not limit resolution). At the same FF comp, you just get more light.
– J...
7 hours ago
In other words, to get the same composition as the FF at MFD, the DX body actually has to back up - the DX can frame any macro shot that the FF can, and more. Backing up can also make lighting easier - a shot you might only have been able to light with ring on FF you might be able to clamshell with DX, for example. In natural light you get more angles to shoot from without being in your own shadow. It's the complete opposite of almost every other type of photography where the compositional advantages are all on DX instead of the other way around.
– J...
7 hours ago
add a comment |
I shoot Nikon, but another consideration is frame size. Both the 80D and 800D are crop sensors and macro is one place where, at least personally, I actually prefer to shoot crop over full frame. For the same composition you can shoot with a larger subject distance which gives you more depth of field at any given aperture, saving you precious light. It actually does get you better IQ over FF at the same sensor resolution if the lens itself is sufficiently sharp.
– J...
10 hours ago
@J... Well, sort of. MFD (minimum focus distance) of any particular lens will be the same whether it is mounted on a crop or FF camera. What changes is the angle of view. With a crop sensor you need a lens with a wider AoV to get the same framing at the same subject distance. If you are backing up to get the same framing as you would get with the same lens on a FF body then you are not using the MFD, and you're not getting MM and true 1:1 macro reproduction ratios. You're getting greater DoF because you are increasing the subject distance, but you're also decreasing magnification.
– Michael C
10 hours ago
Yes, but 1:1 isn't the whole story. I'll use my example of the D7100 (24MP DX) vs the D750 (24MP FF). 1:1 only tells you that the image at the sensor will be the same size as the real object. A 10mm spider will make a 10mm image. On a 36mm FF sensor that's 27% of the frame width. On a 24mm sensor it's 46% of the frame - and both sensors have the same number of pixels. The DX pixels are just smaller. At MFD the DX sensor gives you more magnification and more composition options (assuming the glass is good enough to not limit resolution). At the same FF comp, you just get more light.
– J...
7 hours ago
In other words, to get the same composition as the FF at MFD, the DX body actually has to back up - the DX can frame any macro shot that the FF can, and more. Backing up can also make lighting easier - a shot you might only have been able to light with ring on FF you might be able to clamshell with DX, for example. In natural light you get more angles to shoot from without being in your own shadow. It's the complete opposite of almost every other type of photography where the compositional advantages are all on DX instead of the other way around.
– J...
7 hours ago
I shoot Nikon, but another consideration is frame size. Both the 80D and 800D are crop sensors and macro is one place where, at least personally, I actually prefer to shoot crop over full frame. For the same composition you can shoot with a larger subject distance which gives you more depth of field at any given aperture, saving you precious light. It actually does get you better IQ over FF at the same sensor resolution if the lens itself is sufficiently sharp.
– J...
10 hours ago
I shoot Nikon, but another consideration is frame size. Both the 80D and 800D are crop sensors and macro is one place where, at least personally, I actually prefer to shoot crop over full frame. For the same composition you can shoot with a larger subject distance which gives you more depth of field at any given aperture, saving you precious light. It actually does get you better IQ over FF at the same sensor resolution if the lens itself is sufficiently sharp.
– J...
10 hours ago
@J... Well, sort of. MFD (minimum focus distance) of any particular lens will be the same whether it is mounted on a crop or FF camera. What changes is the angle of view. With a crop sensor you need a lens with a wider AoV to get the same framing at the same subject distance. If you are backing up to get the same framing as you would get with the same lens on a FF body then you are not using the MFD, and you're not getting MM and true 1:1 macro reproduction ratios. You're getting greater DoF because you are increasing the subject distance, but you're also decreasing magnification.
– Michael C
10 hours ago
@J... Well, sort of. MFD (minimum focus distance) of any particular lens will be the same whether it is mounted on a crop or FF camera. What changes is the angle of view. With a crop sensor you need a lens with a wider AoV to get the same framing at the same subject distance. If you are backing up to get the same framing as you would get with the same lens on a FF body then you are not using the MFD, and you're not getting MM and true 1:1 macro reproduction ratios. You're getting greater DoF because you are increasing the subject distance, but you're also decreasing magnification.
– Michael C
10 hours ago
Yes, but 1:1 isn't the whole story. I'll use my example of the D7100 (24MP DX) vs the D750 (24MP FF). 1:1 only tells you that the image at the sensor will be the same size as the real object. A 10mm spider will make a 10mm image. On a 36mm FF sensor that's 27% of the frame width. On a 24mm sensor it's 46% of the frame - and both sensors have the same number of pixels. The DX pixels are just smaller. At MFD the DX sensor gives you more magnification and more composition options (assuming the glass is good enough to not limit resolution). At the same FF comp, you just get more light.
– J...
7 hours ago
Yes, but 1:1 isn't the whole story. I'll use my example of the D7100 (24MP DX) vs the D750 (24MP FF). 1:1 only tells you that the image at the sensor will be the same size as the real object. A 10mm spider will make a 10mm image. On a 36mm FF sensor that's 27% of the frame width. On a 24mm sensor it's 46% of the frame - and both sensors have the same number of pixels. The DX pixels are just smaller. At MFD the DX sensor gives you more magnification and more composition options (assuming the glass is good enough to not limit resolution). At the same FF comp, you just get more light.
– J...
7 hours ago
In other words, to get the same composition as the FF at MFD, the DX body actually has to back up - the DX can frame any macro shot that the FF can, and more. Backing up can also make lighting easier - a shot you might only have been able to light with ring on FF you might be able to clamshell with DX, for example. In natural light you get more angles to shoot from without being in your own shadow. It's the complete opposite of almost every other type of photography where the compositional advantages are all on DX instead of the other way around.
– J...
7 hours ago
In other words, to get the same composition as the FF at MFD, the DX body actually has to back up - the DX can frame any macro shot that the FF can, and more. Backing up can also make lighting easier - a shot you might only have been able to light with ring on FF you might be able to clamshell with DX, for example. In natural light you get more angles to shoot from without being in your own shadow. It's the complete opposite of almost every other type of photography where the compositional advantages are all on DX instead of the other way around.
– J...
7 hours ago
add a comment |
The very general rule with Canon is that lower numbered models and higher numbered "marks" are better (and therefore more expensive). So 500D < 50D < 5D, and 5D Mark III < 5D Mark IV.
On the other hand, whether for example 7D Mark II is better than 5D Mark I is a much more complicated question, because some aspects of a recent model will typically have some better hardware than an older model with a lower number.
As a caveat I'd like to include some advice I got from a good photographer: unless your budget is massive you should prioritize spending your money on good lenses rather than a good body.
1
It might be worth saying that lower being better is true in so far as 80D being higher spec than 800D, but within the tens, hundreds and thousands higher numbers are newer models (e.g. 800D is newer and better than 700D). For single digit models like the 1D and 5D, the smaller numbers are generally more expensive/higher spec and newer releases are indicated by the mark number. expertreviews.co.uk/dslrs/1405777/… has a better explanation than I can fit in a comment.
– Nick Kennedy
23 hours ago
This is simply wrong, as it implies that the asker's existing 450D is better than the 800D they're considering buying as a replacement. And, really, it does nothing at all to answer the question. The question asks about suitability for macro work and you don't mention that at all.
– David Richerby
20 hours ago
Hence why I stated it as a "general rule," rather than an absolute. The vast majority of models are better than all the ones with higher numbers in Canon's case. As for macro work, like the accepted answer I mention that OP should prioritize lenses over cameras.
– l0b0
13 hours ago
add a comment |
The very general rule with Canon is that lower numbered models and higher numbered "marks" are better (and therefore more expensive). So 500D < 50D < 5D, and 5D Mark III < 5D Mark IV.
On the other hand, whether for example 7D Mark II is better than 5D Mark I is a much more complicated question, because some aspects of a recent model will typically have some better hardware than an older model with a lower number.
As a caveat I'd like to include some advice I got from a good photographer: unless your budget is massive you should prioritize spending your money on good lenses rather than a good body.
1
It might be worth saying that lower being better is true in so far as 80D being higher spec than 800D, but within the tens, hundreds and thousands higher numbers are newer models (e.g. 800D is newer and better than 700D). For single digit models like the 1D and 5D, the smaller numbers are generally more expensive/higher spec and newer releases are indicated by the mark number. expertreviews.co.uk/dslrs/1405777/… has a better explanation than I can fit in a comment.
– Nick Kennedy
23 hours ago
This is simply wrong, as it implies that the asker's existing 450D is better than the 800D they're considering buying as a replacement. And, really, it does nothing at all to answer the question. The question asks about suitability for macro work and you don't mention that at all.
– David Richerby
20 hours ago
Hence why I stated it as a "general rule," rather than an absolute. The vast majority of models are better than all the ones with higher numbers in Canon's case. As for macro work, like the accepted answer I mention that OP should prioritize lenses over cameras.
– l0b0
13 hours ago
add a comment |
The very general rule with Canon is that lower numbered models and higher numbered "marks" are better (and therefore more expensive). So 500D < 50D < 5D, and 5D Mark III < 5D Mark IV.
On the other hand, whether for example 7D Mark II is better than 5D Mark I is a much more complicated question, because some aspects of a recent model will typically have some better hardware than an older model with a lower number.
As a caveat I'd like to include some advice I got from a good photographer: unless your budget is massive you should prioritize spending your money on good lenses rather than a good body.
The very general rule with Canon is that lower numbered models and higher numbered "marks" are better (and therefore more expensive). So 500D < 50D < 5D, and 5D Mark III < 5D Mark IV.
On the other hand, whether for example 7D Mark II is better than 5D Mark I is a much more complicated question, because some aspects of a recent model will typically have some better hardware than an older model with a lower number.
As a caveat I'd like to include some advice I got from a good photographer: unless your budget is massive you should prioritize spending your money on good lenses rather than a good body.
answered yesterday
l0b0l0b0
18913
18913
1
It might be worth saying that lower being better is true in so far as 80D being higher spec than 800D, but within the tens, hundreds and thousands higher numbers are newer models (e.g. 800D is newer and better than 700D). For single digit models like the 1D and 5D, the smaller numbers are generally more expensive/higher spec and newer releases are indicated by the mark number. expertreviews.co.uk/dslrs/1405777/… has a better explanation than I can fit in a comment.
– Nick Kennedy
23 hours ago
This is simply wrong, as it implies that the asker's existing 450D is better than the 800D they're considering buying as a replacement. And, really, it does nothing at all to answer the question. The question asks about suitability for macro work and you don't mention that at all.
– David Richerby
20 hours ago
Hence why I stated it as a "general rule," rather than an absolute. The vast majority of models are better than all the ones with higher numbers in Canon's case. As for macro work, like the accepted answer I mention that OP should prioritize lenses over cameras.
– l0b0
13 hours ago
add a comment |
1
It might be worth saying that lower being better is true in so far as 80D being higher spec than 800D, but within the tens, hundreds and thousands higher numbers are newer models (e.g. 800D is newer and better than 700D). For single digit models like the 1D and 5D, the smaller numbers are generally more expensive/higher spec and newer releases are indicated by the mark number. expertreviews.co.uk/dslrs/1405777/… has a better explanation than I can fit in a comment.
– Nick Kennedy
23 hours ago
This is simply wrong, as it implies that the asker's existing 450D is better than the 800D they're considering buying as a replacement. And, really, it does nothing at all to answer the question. The question asks about suitability for macro work and you don't mention that at all.
– David Richerby
20 hours ago
Hence why I stated it as a "general rule," rather than an absolute. The vast majority of models are better than all the ones with higher numbers in Canon's case. As for macro work, like the accepted answer I mention that OP should prioritize lenses over cameras.
– l0b0
13 hours ago
1
1
It might be worth saying that lower being better is true in so far as 80D being higher spec than 800D, but within the tens, hundreds and thousands higher numbers are newer models (e.g. 800D is newer and better than 700D). For single digit models like the 1D and 5D, the smaller numbers are generally more expensive/higher spec and newer releases are indicated by the mark number. expertreviews.co.uk/dslrs/1405777/… has a better explanation than I can fit in a comment.
– Nick Kennedy
23 hours ago
It might be worth saying that lower being better is true in so far as 80D being higher spec than 800D, but within the tens, hundreds and thousands higher numbers are newer models (e.g. 800D is newer and better than 700D). For single digit models like the 1D and 5D, the smaller numbers are generally more expensive/higher spec and newer releases are indicated by the mark number. expertreviews.co.uk/dslrs/1405777/… has a better explanation than I can fit in a comment.
– Nick Kennedy
23 hours ago
This is simply wrong, as it implies that the asker's existing 450D is better than the 800D they're considering buying as a replacement. And, really, it does nothing at all to answer the question. The question asks about suitability for macro work and you don't mention that at all.
– David Richerby
20 hours ago
This is simply wrong, as it implies that the asker's existing 450D is better than the 800D they're considering buying as a replacement. And, really, it does nothing at all to answer the question. The question asks about suitability for macro work and you don't mention that at all.
– David Richerby
20 hours ago
Hence why I stated it as a "general rule," rather than an absolute. The vast majority of models are better than all the ones with higher numbers in Canon's case. As for macro work, like the accepted answer I mention that OP should prioritize lenses over cameras.
– l0b0
13 hours ago
Hence why I stated it as a "general rule," rather than an absolute. The vast majority of models are better than all the ones with higher numbers in Canon's case. As for macro work, like the accepted answer I mention that OP should prioritize lenses over cameras.
– l0b0
13 hours ago
add a comment |
O Bhavsar is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
O Bhavsar is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
O Bhavsar is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
O Bhavsar is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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1
I already have a Canon EF 100mm macro lens with IS.
– O Bhavsar
yesterday
4
So what about 450D + EF 100mm macro is not working for you?
– xiota
yesterday
3
@OBhavsar please include all relevant information in your question, rather than stringing a few extra bits into the comments.
– osullic
22 hours ago
1
@osullic Noted. I'm still pretty new to stack exchange
– O Bhavsar
22 hours ago
2
@OBhavsar you can edit your question with the info from the comments. Comments can then be deleted. And welcome to StackExchange!
– osullic
22 hours ago