Very slow Wi-Fi download speeds using a TP-LINK WR841N (1/10th of full Ethernet speed)












7















I have 105/10 internet through Comcast and I have a TP-LINK WR841N router. I use Ethernet and Wi-Fi. I get ~100Mbps through Ethernet, and only around 10 Mbps through Wi-Fi. Yesterday I had ~50Mbps on Wi-Fi but even that is half of of the original speed. Any suggestions? This really sucks as this router was rated really high by a lot of users.



Here are some details:



Hardware Version:




  • WR841N v9 00000000


Firmware Version:




  • W3.16.9 Build 141013 Rel.61626n


Wireless:





  • Wireless Radio: Enable


  • Name (SSID): Motorola


  • Mode: 11bgn mixed


  • Channel Width: 20MHz


  • Channel: 11


  • WDS Status: Disable










share|improve this question

























  • How fast a Wi-Fi connection can go depends on the capabilities of both the AP (wireless router) and the Wi-Fi chipset in the client device. What Wi-Fi card or chipset do you have in the client device in question? And what is the client device exactly?

    – Spiff
    Jan 20 '15 at 7:08











  • It may be the king of the "$20 or free-after-rebate" APs, but you get what you pay for. Vendors have to cut corners like crazy in the race to the bottom of the pricing structure. I find it's better to "invest in" a flagship (but not bleeding-edge) AP, where vendors compete on performance/range/quality/features, instead of buying a bargain-basement AP where they only compete on price.

    – Spiff
    Jan 20 '15 at 8:00











  • @Spiff It’s not really that bad. With OpenWrt, it’s a capable device, stable too. I can’t check the actual WiFi performance now though, because it’s installed at my parents’ house.

    – Daniel B
    Jan 20 '15 at 8:14











  • @DanielB It may be "a capable device" by early 2007 expectations, perhaps, but not by 2015 (or even mid-2013) expectations.

    – Spiff
    Jan 20 '15 at 9:08











  • @Spiff I don’t quite get what you think is wrong with its WiFi performance, because apart from 11ac nothing has changed at all. 11n is still 11n and 2.4 GHz is still 2.4 GHz. Sure, there may be 3×3 MIMO, but clients have to support it, too. Most don’t.

    – Daniel B
    Jan 20 '15 at 9:16
















7















I have 105/10 internet through Comcast and I have a TP-LINK WR841N router. I use Ethernet and Wi-Fi. I get ~100Mbps through Ethernet, and only around 10 Mbps through Wi-Fi. Yesterday I had ~50Mbps on Wi-Fi but even that is half of of the original speed. Any suggestions? This really sucks as this router was rated really high by a lot of users.



Here are some details:



Hardware Version:




  • WR841N v9 00000000


Firmware Version:




  • W3.16.9 Build 141013 Rel.61626n


Wireless:





  • Wireless Radio: Enable


  • Name (SSID): Motorola


  • Mode: 11bgn mixed


  • Channel Width: 20MHz


  • Channel: 11


  • WDS Status: Disable










share|improve this question

























  • How fast a Wi-Fi connection can go depends on the capabilities of both the AP (wireless router) and the Wi-Fi chipset in the client device. What Wi-Fi card or chipset do you have in the client device in question? And what is the client device exactly?

    – Spiff
    Jan 20 '15 at 7:08











  • It may be the king of the "$20 or free-after-rebate" APs, but you get what you pay for. Vendors have to cut corners like crazy in the race to the bottom of the pricing structure. I find it's better to "invest in" a flagship (but not bleeding-edge) AP, where vendors compete on performance/range/quality/features, instead of buying a bargain-basement AP where they only compete on price.

    – Spiff
    Jan 20 '15 at 8:00











  • @Spiff It’s not really that bad. With OpenWrt, it’s a capable device, stable too. I can’t check the actual WiFi performance now though, because it’s installed at my parents’ house.

    – Daniel B
    Jan 20 '15 at 8:14











  • @DanielB It may be "a capable device" by early 2007 expectations, perhaps, but not by 2015 (or even mid-2013) expectations.

    – Spiff
    Jan 20 '15 at 9:08











  • @Spiff I don’t quite get what you think is wrong with its WiFi performance, because apart from 11ac nothing has changed at all. 11n is still 11n and 2.4 GHz is still 2.4 GHz. Sure, there may be 3×3 MIMO, but clients have to support it, too. Most don’t.

    – Daniel B
    Jan 20 '15 at 9:16














7












7








7


1






I have 105/10 internet through Comcast and I have a TP-LINK WR841N router. I use Ethernet and Wi-Fi. I get ~100Mbps through Ethernet, and only around 10 Mbps through Wi-Fi. Yesterday I had ~50Mbps on Wi-Fi but even that is half of of the original speed. Any suggestions? This really sucks as this router was rated really high by a lot of users.



Here are some details:



Hardware Version:




  • WR841N v9 00000000


Firmware Version:




  • W3.16.9 Build 141013 Rel.61626n


Wireless:





  • Wireless Radio: Enable


  • Name (SSID): Motorola


  • Mode: 11bgn mixed


  • Channel Width: 20MHz


  • Channel: 11


  • WDS Status: Disable










share|improve this question
















I have 105/10 internet through Comcast and I have a TP-LINK WR841N router. I use Ethernet and Wi-Fi. I get ~100Mbps through Ethernet, and only around 10 Mbps through Wi-Fi. Yesterday I had ~50Mbps on Wi-Fi but even that is half of of the original speed. Any suggestions? This really sucks as this router was rated really high by a lot of users.



Here are some details:



Hardware Version:




  • WR841N v9 00000000


Firmware Version:




  • W3.16.9 Build 141013 Rel.61626n


Wireless:





  • Wireless Radio: Enable


  • Name (SSID): Motorola


  • Mode: 11bgn mixed


  • Channel Width: 20MHz


  • Channel: 11


  • WDS Status: Disable







wireless-networking router ethernet






share|improve this question















share|improve this question













share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited Dec 8 '16 at 18:59









Hennes

59k792141




59k792141










asked Jan 20 '15 at 4:22









Georgi AngelovGeorgi Angelov

136114




136114













  • How fast a Wi-Fi connection can go depends on the capabilities of both the AP (wireless router) and the Wi-Fi chipset in the client device. What Wi-Fi card or chipset do you have in the client device in question? And what is the client device exactly?

    – Spiff
    Jan 20 '15 at 7:08











  • It may be the king of the "$20 or free-after-rebate" APs, but you get what you pay for. Vendors have to cut corners like crazy in the race to the bottom of the pricing structure. I find it's better to "invest in" a flagship (but not bleeding-edge) AP, where vendors compete on performance/range/quality/features, instead of buying a bargain-basement AP where they only compete on price.

    – Spiff
    Jan 20 '15 at 8:00











  • @Spiff It’s not really that bad. With OpenWrt, it’s a capable device, stable too. I can’t check the actual WiFi performance now though, because it’s installed at my parents’ house.

    – Daniel B
    Jan 20 '15 at 8:14











  • @DanielB It may be "a capable device" by early 2007 expectations, perhaps, but not by 2015 (or even mid-2013) expectations.

    – Spiff
    Jan 20 '15 at 9:08











  • @Spiff I don’t quite get what you think is wrong with its WiFi performance, because apart from 11ac nothing has changed at all. 11n is still 11n and 2.4 GHz is still 2.4 GHz. Sure, there may be 3×3 MIMO, but clients have to support it, too. Most don’t.

    – Daniel B
    Jan 20 '15 at 9:16



















  • How fast a Wi-Fi connection can go depends on the capabilities of both the AP (wireless router) and the Wi-Fi chipset in the client device. What Wi-Fi card or chipset do you have in the client device in question? And what is the client device exactly?

    – Spiff
    Jan 20 '15 at 7:08











  • It may be the king of the "$20 or free-after-rebate" APs, but you get what you pay for. Vendors have to cut corners like crazy in the race to the bottom of the pricing structure. I find it's better to "invest in" a flagship (but not bleeding-edge) AP, where vendors compete on performance/range/quality/features, instead of buying a bargain-basement AP where they only compete on price.

    – Spiff
    Jan 20 '15 at 8:00











  • @Spiff It’s not really that bad. With OpenWrt, it’s a capable device, stable too. I can’t check the actual WiFi performance now though, because it’s installed at my parents’ house.

    – Daniel B
    Jan 20 '15 at 8:14











  • @DanielB It may be "a capable device" by early 2007 expectations, perhaps, but not by 2015 (or even mid-2013) expectations.

    – Spiff
    Jan 20 '15 at 9:08











  • @Spiff I don’t quite get what you think is wrong with its WiFi performance, because apart from 11ac nothing has changed at all. 11n is still 11n and 2.4 GHz is still 2.4 GHz. Sure, there may be 3×3 MIMO, but clients have to support it, too. Most don’t.

    – Daniel B
    Jan 20 '15 at 9:16

















How fast a Wi-Fi connection can go depends on the capabilities of both the AP (wireless router) and the Wi-Fi chipset in the client device. What Wi-Fi card or chipset do you have in the client device in question? And what is the client device exactly?

– Spiff
Jan 20 '15 at 7:08





How fast a Wi-Fi connection can go depends on the capabilities of both the AP (wireless router) and the Wi-Fi chipset in the client device. What Wi-Fi card or chipset do you have in the client device in question? And what is the client device exactly?

– Spiff
Jan 20 '15 at 7:08













It may be the king of the "$20 or free-after-rebate" APs, but you get what you pay for. Vendors have to cut corners like crazy in the race to the bottom of the pricing structure. I find it's better to "invest in" a flagship (but not bleeding-edge) AP, where vendors compete on performance/range/quality/features, instead of buying a bargain-basement AP where they only compete on price.

– Spiff
Jan 20 '15 at 8:00





It may be the king of the "$20 or free-after-rebate" APs, but you get what you pay for. Vendors have to cut corners like crazy in the race to the bottom of the pricing structure. I find it's better to "invest in" a flagship (but not bleeding-edge) AP, where vendors compete on performance/range/quality/features, instead of buying a bargain-basement AP where they only compete on price.

– Spiff
Jan 20 '15 at 8:00













@Spiff It’s not really that bad. With OpenWrt, it’s a capable device, stable too. I can’t check the actual WiFi performance now though, because it’s installed at my parents’ house.

– Daniel B
Jan 20 '15 at 8:14





@Spiff It’s not really that bad. With OpenWrt, it’s a capable device, stable too. I can’t check the actual WiFi performance now though, because it’s installed at my parents’ house.

– Daniel B
Jan 20 '15 at 8:14













@DanielB It may be "a capable device" by early 2007 expectations, perhaps, but not by 2015 (or even mid-2013) expectations.

– Spiff
Jan 20 '15 at 9:08





@DanielB It may be "a capable device" by early 2007 expectations, perhaps, but not by 2015 (or even mid-2013) expectations.

– Spiff
Jan 20 '15 at 9:08













@Spiff I don’t quite get what you think is wrong with its WiFi performance, because apart from 11ac nothing has changed at all. 11n is still 11n and 2.4 GHz is still 2.4 GHz. Sure, there may be 3×3 MIMO, but clients have to support it, too. Most don’t.

– Daniel B
Jan 20 '15 at 9:16





@Spiff I don’t quite get what you think is wrong with its WiFi performance, because apart from 11ac nothing has changed at all. 11n is still 11n and 2.4 GHz is still 2.4 GHz. Sure, there may be 3×3 MIMO, but clients have to support it, too. Most don’t.

– Daniel B
Jan 20 '15 at 9:16










3 Answers
3






active

oldest

votes


















10














In ideal conditions, such as a perfectly interference-free channel and a good client just 2-3 meters away, you should be able to get over 200Mbps of TCP/IP throughput out of an AP that does the 300Mbps flavor of 802.11n.



From the information you've given, one obvious thing to try is to set the channel width to 20/40MHz instead of 20-only. Your AP can only do 144.4 Mbps signaling when limited to traditional 20MHz-wide channels. To get its 300Mbps max rate, it has to use 40MHz-wide channels.



However, you should beware that the 2.4GHz band is often congested (other Wi-Fi users, Bluetooth, cordless phones, microwave ovens, wireless security cams/webcams, baby monitors, non-Bluetooth wireless mice and keyboards, wireless speakers and subwoofers, Nintendo Wii remotes, etc.), and trying to find a clean contiguous 40MHz-wide swath of that band is more than twice as hard as finding a clean 20MHz-wide swath.



Side note: Because Apple likes to leave some room for Bluetooth devices to have a fighting chance of working well, Apple has traditionally limited all of their 802.11n and 802.11ac-capable devices to using only 20MHz-wide channels when operating in the 2.4GHz band. They still use 40MHz or 80MHz wide channels in the 5GHz band. So if your client device in question, is, say, a MacBook, then setting your WR841N to 20/40MHz mode won't help, because your WR841N only supports the 2.4GHz band. You'd want to replace it with a simultaneous dual-band (a.k.a. dual-band concurrent) AP.



If enabling 20/40MHz mode doesn't solve the problem, here are some other things to try:




  • Make sure your client is capable of the 300Mbps flavor of 802.11n in the 2.4GHz band (2 spatial streams, short guard intervals, 40MHz-wide channels).

  • Make sure your AP is set to use the cleanest possible 40MHz swath of the 2.4GHz band. Try other channels; try turning off other things that could be generating 2.4GHz RF noise; use a tool like inSSIDer to see how neighboring Wi-Fi networks might be interfering with you; etc. If you bought a $20 AP, I'm not going to tell you to spend many times that buying a Wi-Spy or other 2.4GHz spectrum analyzer, but I love my Wi-Spy dBx.

  • Try turning off other things that may be making traffic on your home network, especially if they're older 802.11g or especially 802.11b gear. It's a myth that the presence of those things will drop the whole network down to the old low speeds, but those old devices can consume a lot more wireless airtime for the same amount of traffic, and the modern devices take a performance penalty by having to use various protection mechanisms to keep the older gear from stepping on modern transmissions they can't detect.

  • Make sure your client is 2-3 meters from the AP (too close can overload the radio and cause distortion; too far and you signal strength might no be enough to sustain the top data rates).

  • If you have wireless security enabled, make sure it's WPA2. 802.11n requires WPA2 if you're going to use security. The original WPA, and WEP before that, used hardware RC4 cipher engines that couldn't keep up with 802.11n-era data rates.

  • Make sure you have WMM (a kind of wireless QoS) enabled on both your AP and client, if they give you the option. 802.11n requires WMM. If you disable WMM, you're effectively disabling 802.11n. Some APs and clients aren't smart enough to warn you about that. If they don't give you an option to enable/disable WMM, they must have it on by default which is great.






share|improve this answer































    3














    note that it's probably not related to your internet.



    it may related to the wireless bandwidth (mixed mode bgn), since "wifi standard" 802.11b have bandwidth only 10Mbps 802.11g have 54Mbps, and 802.11n have 600Mbps. note that it's just the theoretical bandwidth the actual may lower at 80%ish. edit: duplex communication means it's halved from the bandwidth



    meanwhile LAN (fast Ethernet i reckon) have 100Mbps bandwidth.



    it's normal that wifi speed is slower than ethernet



    try copying between computers (from ethernet to wifi) to check the maximum possible transfer there. and compare it with your current bandwidth. edit: try to change the mode to 11n only and retest if there's actual change (only if your PC/laptop/phone have 11n support)






    share|improve this answer
























    • The only option is 11bgn and 11bg . Unfortunately, there does not seem to be an option only for 11n.

      – Georgi Angelov
      Jan 20 '15 at 5:43






    • 3





      This is probably what's causing the horrendously slow speeds. If you have any B devices connect, that's gonna kill your G speed. There's no option to disable mixed mode? Aside from that, the only thing you can do is keep B devices off your network. Also, run InSSIDer to check the surrounding wifi channels and make sure channels 7-11 are as clear as possible (channels 7-10 partially overlap with 11), otherwise, change to 1 or 6.

      – Bigbio2002
      Jan 24 '15 at 16:30



















    0














    FYI here's how I went from ~5-20 Mbps to ~75 Mbps with the exact same router and Comcast Blast! internet:




    1. Install DD-WRT firmware by following this wiki

    2. Use the settings from the last post in this thread


    Don't be nervous about installing the WRT firmware. It was as smooth and easy as installing/upgrading firmware made by TP-Link.






    share|improve this answer

























      Your Answer








      StackExchange.ready(function() {
      var channelOptions = {
      tags: "".split(" "),
      id: "3"
      };
      initTagRenderer("".split(" "), "".split(" "), channelOptions);

      StackExchange.using("externalEditor", function() {
      // Have to fire editor after snippets, if snippets enabled
      if (StackExchange.settings.snippets.snippetsEnabled) {
      StackExchange.using("snippets", function() {
      createEditor();
      });
      }
      else {
      createEditor();
      }
      });

      function createEditor() {
      StackExchange.prepareEditor({
      heartbeatType: 'answer',
      autoActivateHeartbeat: false,
      convertImagesToLinks: true,
      noModals: true,
      showLowRepImageUploadWarning: true,
      reputationToPostImages: 10,
      bindNavPrevention: true,
      postfix: "",
      imageUploader: {
      brandingHtml: "Powered by u003ca class="icon-imgur-white" href="https://imgur.com/"u003eu003c/au003e",
      contentPolicyHtml: "User contributions licensed under u003ca href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"u003ecc by-sa 3.0 with attribution requiredu003c/au003e u003ca href="https://stackoverflow.com/legal/content-policy"u003e(content policy)u003c/au003e",
      allowUrls: true
      },
      onDemand: true,
      discardSelector: ".discard-answer"
      ,immediatelyShowMarkdownHelp:true
      });


      }
      });














      draft saved

      draft discarded


















      StackExchange.ready(
      function () {
      StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fsuperuser.com%2fquestions%2f866934%2fvery-slow-wi-fi-download-speeds-using-a-tp-link-wr841n-1-10th-of-full-ethernet%23new-answer', 'question_page');
      }
      );

      Post as a guest















      Required, but never shown

























      3 Answers
      3






      active

      oldest

      votes








      3 Answers
      3






      active

      oldest

      votes









      active

      oldest

      votes






      active

      oldest

      votes









      10














      In ideal conditions, such as a perfectly interference-free channel and a good client just 2-3 meters away, you should be able to get over 200Mbps of TCP/IP throughput out of an AP that does the 300Mbps flavor of 802.11n.



      From the information you've given, one obvious thing to try is to set the channel width to 20/40MHz instead of 20-only. Your AP can only do 144.4 Mbps signaling when limited to traditional 20MHz-wide channels. To get its 300Mbps max rate, it has to use 40MHz-wide channels.



      However, you should beware that the 2.4GHz band is often congested (other Wi-Fi users, Bluetooth, cordless phones, microwave ovens, wireless security cams/webcams, baby monitors, non-Bluetooth wireless mice and keyboards, wireless speakers and subwoofers, Nintendo Wii remotes, etc.), and trying to find a clean contiguous 40MHz-wide swath of that band is more than twice as hard as finding a clean 20MHz-wide swath.



      Side note: Because Apple likes to leave some room for Bluetooth devices to have a fighting chance of working well, Apple has traditionally limited all of their 802.11n and 802.11ac-capable devices to using only 20MHz-wide channels when operating in the 2.4GHz band. They still use 40MHz or 80MHz wide channels in the 5GHz band. So if your client device in question, is, say, a MacBook, then setting your WR841N to 20/40MHz mode won't help, because your WR841N only supports the 2.4GHz band. You'd want to replace it with a simultaneous dual-band (a.k.a. dual-band concurrent) AP.



      If enabling 20/40MHz mode doesn't solve the problem, here are some other things to try:




      • Make sure your client is capable of the 300Mbps flavor of 802.11n in the 2.4GHz band (2 spatial streams, short guard intervals, 40MHz-wide channels).

      • Make sure your AP is set to use the cleanest possible 40MHz swath of the 2.4GHz band. Try other channels; try turning off other things that could be generating 2.4GHz RF noise; use a tool like inSSIDer to see how neighboring Wi-Fi networks might be interfering with you; etc. If you bought a $20 AP, I'm not going to tell you to spend many times that buying a Wi-Spy or other 2.4GHz spectrum analyzer, but I love my Wi-Spy dBx.

      • Try turning off other things that may be making traffic on your home network, especially if they're older 802.11g or especially 802.11b gear. It's a myth that the presence of those things will drop the whole network down to the old low speeds, but those old devices can consume a lot more wireless airtime for the same amount of traffic, and the modern devices take a performance penalty by having to use various protection mechanisms to keep the older gear from stepping on modern transmissions they can't detect.

      • Make sure your client is 2-3 meters from the AP (too close can overload the radio and cause distortion; too far and you signal strength might no be enough to sustain the top data rates).

      • If you have wireless security enabled, make sure it's WPA2. 802.11n requires WPA2 if you're going to use security. The original WPA, and WEP before that, used hardware RC4 cipher engines that couldn't keep up with 802.11n-era data rates.

      • Make sure you have WMM (a kind of wireless QoS) enabled on both your AP and client, if they give you the option. 802.11n requires WMM. If you disable WMM, you're effectively disabling 802.11n. Some APs and clients aren't smart enough to warn you about that. If they don't give you an option to enable/disable WMM, they must have it on by default which is great.






      share|improve this answer




























        10














        In ideal conditions, such as a perfectly interference-free channel and a good client just 2-3 meters away, you should be able to get over 200Mbps of TCP/IP throughput out of an AP that does the 300Mbps flavor of 802.11n.



        From the information you've given, one obvious thing to try is to set the channel width to 20/40MHz instead of 20-only. Your AP can only do 144.4 Mbps signaling when limited to traditional 20MHz-wide channels. To get its 300Mbps max rate, it has to use 40MHz-wide channels.



        However, you should beware that the 2.4GHz band is often congested (other Wi-Fi users, Bluetooth, cordless phones, microwave ovens, wireless security cams/webcams, baby monitors, non-Bluetooth wireless mice and keyboards, wireless speakers and subwoofers, Nintendo Wii remotes, etc.), and trying to find a clean contiguous 40MHz-wide swath of that band is more than twice as hard as finding a clean 20MHz-wide swath.



        Side note: Because Apple likes to leave some room for Bluetooth devices to have a fighting chance of working well, Apple has traditionally limited all of their 802.11n and 802.11ac-capable devices to using only 20MHz-wide channels when operating in the 2.4GHz band. They still use 40MHz or 80MHz wide channels in the 5GHz band. So if your client device in question, is, say, a MacBook, then setting your WR841N to 20/40MHz mode won't help, because your WR841N only supports the 2.4GHz band. You'd want to replace it with a simultaneous dual-band (a.k.a. dual-band concurrent) AP.



        If enabling 20/40MHz mode doesn't solve the problem, here are some other things to try:




        • Make sure your client is capable of the 300Mbps flavor of 802.11n in the 2.4GHz band (2 spatial streams, short guard intervals, 40MHz-wide channels).

        • Make sure your AP is set to use the cleanest possible 40MHz swath of the 2.4GHz band. Try other channels; try turning off other things that could be generating 2.4GHz RF noise; use a tool like inSSIDer to see how neighboring Wi-Fi networks might be interfering with you; etc. If you bought a $20 AP, I'm not going to tell you to spend many times that buying a Wi-Spy or other 2.4GHz spectrum analyzer, but I love my Wi-Spy dBx.

        • Try turning off other things that may be making traffic on your home network, especially if they're older 802.11g or especially 802.11b gear. It's a myth that the presence of those things will drop the whole network down to the old low speeds, but those old devices can consume a lot more wireless airtime for the same amount of traffic, and the modern devices take a performance penalty by having to use various protection mechanisms to keep the older gear from stepping on modern transmissions they can't detect.

        • Make sure your client is 2-3 meters from the AP (too close can overload the radio and cause distortion; too far and you signal strength might no be enough to sustain the top data rates).

        • If you have wireless security enabled, make sure it's WPA2. 802.11n requires WPA2 if you're going to use security. The original WPA, and WEP before that, used hardware RC4 cipher engines that couldn't keep up with 802.11n-era data rates.

        • Make sure you have WMM (a kind of wireless QoS) enabled on both your AP and client, if they give you the option. 802.11n requires WMM. If you disable WMM, you're effectively disabling 802.11n. Some APs and clients aren't smart enough to warn you about that. If they don't give you an option to enable/disable WMM, they must have it on by default which is great.






        share|improve this answer


























          10












          10








          10







          In ideal conditions, such as a perfectly interference-free channel and a good client just 2-3 meters away, you should be able to get over 200Mbps of TCP/IP throughput out of an AP that does the 300Mbps flavor of 802.11n.



          From the information you've given, one obvious thing to try is to set the channel width to 20/40MHz instead of 20-only. Your AP can only do 144.4 Mbps signaling when limited to traditional 20MHz-wide channels. To get its 300Mbps max rate, it has to use 40MHz-wide channels.



          However, you should beware that the 2.4GHz band is often congested (other Wi-Fi users, Bluetooth, cordless phones, microwave ovens, wireless security cams/webcams, baby monitors, non-Bluetooth wireless mice and keyboards, wireless speakers and subwoofers, Nintendo Wii remotes, etc.), and trying to find a clean contiguous 40MHz-wide swath of that band is more than twice as hard as finding a clean 20MHz-wide swath.



          Side note: Because Apple likes to leave some room for Bluetooth devices to have a fighting chance of working well, Apple has traditionally limited all of their 802.11n and 802.11ac-capable devices to using only 20MHz-wide channels when operating in the 2.4GHz band. They still use 40MHz or 80MHz wide channels in the 5GHz band. So if your client device in question, is, say, a MacBook, then setting your WR841N to 20/40MHz mode won't help, because your WR841N only supports the 2.4GHz band. You'd want to replace it with a simultaneous dual-band (a.k.a. dual-band concurrent) AP.



          If enabling 20/40MHz mode doesn't solve the problem, here are some other things to try:




          • Make sure your client is capable of the 300Mbps flavor of 802.11n in the 2.4GHz band (2 spatial streams, short guard intervals, 40MHz-wide channels).

          • Make sure your AP is set to use the cleanest possible 40MHz swath of the 2.4GHz band. Try other channels; try turning off other things that could be generating 2.4GHz RF noise; use a tool like inSSIDer to see how neighboring Wi-Fi networks might be interfering with you; etc. If you bought a $20 AP, I'm not going to tell you to spend many times that buying a Wi-Spy or other 2.4GHz spectrum analyzer, but I love my Wi-Spy dBx.

          • Try turning off other things that may be making traffic on your home network, especially if they're older 802.11g or especially 802.11b gear. It's a myth that the presence of those things will drop the whole network down to the old low speeds, but those old devices can consume a lot more wireless airtime for the same amount of traffic, and the modern devices take a performance penalty by having to use various protection mechanisms to keep the older gear from stepping on modern transmissions they can't detect.

          • Make sure your client is 2-3 meters from the AP (too close can overload the radio and cause distortion; too far and you signal strength might no be enough to sustain the top data rates).

          • If you have wireless security enabled, make sure it's WPA2. 802.11n requires WPA2 if you're going to use security. The original WPA, and WEP before that, used hardware RC4 cipher engines that couldn't keep up with 802.11n-era data rates.

          • Make sure you have WMM (a kind of wireless QoS) enabled on both your AP and client, if they give you the option. 802.11n requires WMM. If you disable WMM, you're effectively disabling 802.11n. Some APs and clients aren't smart enough to warn you about that. If they don't give you an option to enable/disable WMM, they must have it on by default which is great.






          share|improve this answer













          In ideal conditions, such as a perfectly interference-free channel and a good client just 2-3 meters away, you should be able to get over 200Mbps of TCP/IP throughput out of an AP that does the 300Mbps flavor of 802.11n.



          From the information you've given, one obvious thing to try is to set the channel width to 20/40MHz instead of 20-only. Your AP can only do 144.4 Mbps signaling when limited to traditional 20MHz-wide channels. To get its 300Mbps max rate, it has to use 40MHz-wide channels.



          However, you should beware that the 2.4GHz band is often congested (other Wi-Fi users, Bluetooth, cordless phones, microwave ovens, wireless security cams/webcams, baby monitors, non-Bluetooth wireless mice and keyboards, wireless speakers and subwoofers, Nintendo Wii remotes, etc.), and trying to find a clean contiguous 40MHz-wide swath of that band is more than twice as hard as finding a clean 20MHz-wide swath.



          Side note: Because Apple likes to leave some room for Bluetooth devices to have a fighting chance of working well, Apple has traditionally limited all of their 802.11n and 802.11ac-capable devices to using only 20MHz-wide channels when operating in the 2.4GHz band. They still use 40MHz or 80MHz wide channels in the 5GHz band. So if your client device in question, is, say, a MacBook, then setting your WR841N to 20/40MHz mode won't help, because your WR841N only supports the 2.4GHz band. You'd want to replace it with a simultaneous dual-band (a.k.a. dual-band concurrent) AP.



          If enabling 20/40MHz mode doesn't solve the problem, here are some other things to try:




          • Make sure your client is capable of the 300Mbps flavor of 802.11n in the 2.4GHz band (2 spatial streams, short guard intervals, 40MHz-wide channels).

          • Make sure your AP is set to use the cleanest possible 40MHz swath of the 2.4GHz band. Try other channels; try turning off other things that could be generating 2.4GHz RF noise; use a tool like inSSIDer to see how neighboring Wi-Fi networks might be interfering with you; etc. If you bought a $20 AP, I'm not going to tell you to spend many times that buying a Wi-Spy or other 2.4GHz spectrum analyzer, but I love my Wi-Spy dBx.

          • Try turning off other things that may be making traffic on your home network, especially if they're older 802.11g or especially 802.11b gear. It's a myth that the presence of those things will drop the whole network down to the old low speeds, but those old devices can consume a lot more wireless airtime for the same amount of traffic, and the modern devices take a performance penalty by having to use various protection mechanisms to keep the older gear from stepping on modern transmissions they can't detect.

          • Make sure your client is 2-3 meters from the AP (too close can overload the radio and cause distortion; too far and you signal strength might no be enough to sustain the top data rates).

          • If you have wireless security enabled, make sure it's WPA2. 802.11n requires WPA2 if you're going to use security. The original WPA, and WEP before that, used hardware RC4 cipher engines that couldn't keep up with 802.11n-era data rates.

          • Make sure you have WMM (a kind of wireless QoS) enabled on both your AP and client, if they give you the option. 802.11n requires WMM. If you disable WMM, you're effectively disabling 802.11n. Some APs and clients aren't smart enough to warn you about that. If they don't give you an option to enable/disable WMM, they must have it on by default which is great.







          share|improve this answer












          share|improve this answer



          share|improve this answer










          answered Jan 20 '15 at 7:55









          SpiffSpiff

          77k10117163




          77k10117163

























              3














              note that it's probably not related to your internet.



              it may related to the wireless bandwidth (mixed mode bgn), since "wifi standard" 802.11b have bandwidth only 10Mbps 802.11g have 54Mbps, and 802.11n have 600Mbps. note that it's just the theoretical bandwidth the actual may lower at 80%ish. edit: duplex communication means it's halved from the bandwidth



              meanwhile LAN (fast Ethernet i reckon) have 100Mbps bandwidth.



              it's normal that wifi speed is slower than ethernet



              try copying between computers (from ethernet to wifi) to check the maximum possible transfer there. and compare it with your current bandwidth. edit: try to change the mode to 11n only and retest if there's actual change (only if your PC/laptop/phone have 11n support)






              share|improve this answer
























              • The only option is 11bgn and 11bg . Unfortunately, there does not seem to be an option only for 11n.

                – Georgi Angelov
                Jan 20 '15 at 5:43






              • 3





                This is probably what's causing the horrendously slow speeds. If you have any B devices connect, that's gonna kill your G speed. There's no option to disable mixed mode? Aside from that, the only thing you can do is keep B devices off your network. Also, run InSSIDer to check the surrounding wifi channels and make sure channels 7-11 are as clear as possible (channels 7-10 partially overlap with 11), otherwise, change to 1 or 6.

                – Bigbio2002
                Jan 24 '15 at 16:30
















              3














              note that it's probably not related to your internet.



              it may related to the wireless bandwidth (mixed mode bgn), since "wifi standard" 802.11b have bandwidth only 10Mbps 802.11g have 54Mbps, and 802.11n have 600Mbps. note that it's just the theoretical bandwidth the actual may lower at 80%ish. edit: duplex communication means it's halved from the bandwidth



              meanwhile LAN (fast Ethernet i reckon) have 100Mbps bandwidth.



              it's normal that wifi speed is slower than ethernet



              try copying between computers (from ethernet to wifi) to check the maximum possible transfer there. and compare it with your current bandwidth. edit: try to change the mode to 11n only and retest if there's actual change (only if your PC/laptop/phone have 11n support)






              share|improve this answer
























              • The only option is 11bgn and 11bg . Unfortunately, there does not seem to be an option only for 11n.

                – Georgi Angelov
                Jan 20 '15 at 5:43






              • 3





                This is probably what's causing the horrendously slow speeds. If you have any B devices connect, that's gonna kill your G speed. There's no option to disable mixed mode? Aside from that, the only thing you can do is keep B devices off your network. Also, run InSSIDer to check the surrounding wifi channels and make sure channels 7-11 are as clear as possible (channels 7-10 partially overlap with 11), otherwise, change to 1 or 6.

                – Bigbio2002
                Jan 24 '15 at 16:30














              3












              3








              3







              note that it's probably not related to your internet.



              it may related to the wireless bandwidth (mixed mode bgn), since "wifi standard" 802.11b have bandwidth only 10Mbps 802.11g have 54Mbps, and 802.11n have 600Mbps. note that it's just the theoretical bandwidth the actual may lower at 80%ish. edit: duplex communication means it's halved from the bandwidth



              meanwhile LAN (fast Ethernet i reckon) have 100Mbps bandwidth.



              it's normal that wifi speed is slower than ethernet



              try copying between computers (from ethernet to wifi) to check the maximum possible transfer there. and compare it with your current bandwidth. edit: try to change the mode to 11n only and retest if there's actual change (only if your PC/laptop/phone have 11n support)






              share|improve this answer













              note that it's probably not related to your internet.



              it may related to the wireless bandwidth (mixed mode bgn), since "wifi standard" 802.11b have bandwidth only 10Mbps 802.11g have 54Mbps, and 802.11n have 600Mbps. note that it's just the theoretical bandwidth the actual may lower at 80%ish. edit: duplex communication means it's halved from the bandwidth



              meanwhile LAN (fast Ethernet i reckon) have 100Mbps bandwidth.



              it's normal that wifi speed is slower than ethernet



              try copying between computers (from ethernet to wifi) to check the maximum possible transfer there. and compare it with your current bandwidth. edit: try to change the mode to 11n only and retest if there's actual change (only if your PC/laptop/phone have 11n support)







              share|improve this answer












              share|improve this answer



              share|improve this answer










              answered Jan 20 '15 at 5:32









              Fathin Luqman TantowiFathin Luqman Tantowi

              4916




              4916













              • The only option is 11bgn and 11bg . Unfortunately, there does not seem to be an option only for 11n.

                – Georgi Angelov
                Jan 20 '15 at 5:43






              • 3





                This is probably what's causing the horrendously slow speeds. If you have any B devices connect, that's gonna kill your G speed. There's no option to disable mixed mode? Aside from that, the only thing you can do is keep B devices off your network. Also, run InSSIDer to check the surrounding wifi channels and make sure channels 7-11 are as clear as possible (channels 7-10 partially overlap with 11), otherwise, change to 1 or 6.

                – Bigbio2002
                Jan 24 '15 at 16:30



















              • The only option is 11bgn and 11bg . Unfortunately, there does not seem to be an option only for 11n.

                – Georgi Angelov
                Jan 20 '15 at 5:43






              • 3





                This is probably what's causing the horrendously slow speeds. If you have any B devices connect, that's gonna kill your G speed. There's no option to disable mixed mode? Aside from that, the only thing you can do is keep B devices off your network. Also, run InSSIDer to check the surrounding wifi channels and make sure channels 7-11 are as clear as possible (channels 7-10 partially overlap with 11), otherwise, change to 1 or 6.

                – Bigbio2002
                Jan 24 '15 at 16:30

















              The only option is 11bgn and 11bg . Unfortunately, there does not seem to be an option only for 11n.

              – Georgi Angelov
              Jan 20 '15 at 5:43





              The only option is 11bgn and 11bg . Unfortunately, there does not seem to be an option only for 11n.

              – Georgi Angelov
              Jan 20 '15 at 5:43




              3




              3





              This is probably what's causing the horrendously slow speeds. If you have any B devices connect, that's gonna kill your G speed. There's no option to disable mixed mode? Aside from that, the only thing you can do is keep B devices off your network. Also, run InSSIDer to check the surrounding wifi channels and make sure channels 7-11 are as clear as possible (channels 7-10 partially overlap with 11), otherwise, change to 1 or 6.

              – Bigbio2002
              Jan 24 '15 at 16:30





              This is probably what's causing the horrendously slow speeds. If you have any B devices connect, that's gonna kill your G speed. There's no option to disable mixed mode? Aside from that, the only thing you can do is keep B devices off your network. Also, run InSSIDer to check the surrounding wifi channels and make sure channels 7-11 are as clear as possible (channels 7-10 partially overlap with 11), otherwise, change to 1 or 6.

              – Bigbio2002
              Jan 24 '15 at 16:30











              0














              FYI here's how I went from ~5-20 Mbps to ~75 Mbps with the exact same router and Comcast Blast! internet:




              1. Install DD-WRT firmware by following this wiki

              2. Use the settings from the last post in this thread


              Don't be nervous about installing the WRT firmware. It was as smooth and easy as installing/upgrading firmware made by TP-Link.






              share|improve this answer






























                0














                FYI here's how I went from ~5-20 Mbps to ~75 Mbps with the exact same router and Comcast Blast! internet:




                1. Install DD-WRT firmware by following this wiki

                2. Use the settings from the last post in this thread


                Don't be nervous about installing the WRT firmware. It was as smooth and easy as installing/upgrading firmware made by TP-Link.






                share|improve this answer




























                  0












                  0








                  0







                  FYI here's how I went from ~5-20 Mbps to ~75 Mbps with the exact same router and Comcast Blast! internet:




                  1. Install DD-WRT firmware by following this wiki

                  2. Use the settings from the last post in this thread


                  Don't be nervous about installing the WRT firmware. It was as smooth and easy as installing/upgrading firmware made by TP-Link.






                  share|improve this answer















                  FYI here's how I went from ~5-20 Mbps to ~75 Mbps with the exact same router and Comcast Blast! internet:




                  1. Install DD-WRT firmware by following this wiki

                  2. Use the settings from the last post in this thread


                  Don't be nervous about installing the WRT firmware. It was as smooth and easy as installing/upgrading firmware made by TP-Link.







                  share|improve this answer














                  share|improve this answer



                  share|improve this answer








                  edited Jan 11 '16 at 12:01









                  nKn

                  4,51552231




                  4,51552231










                  answered Jan 9 '16 at 18:27









                  JawannJawann

                  11




                  11






























                      draft saved

                      draft discarded




















































                      Thanks for contributing an answer to Super User!


                      • Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!

                      But avoid



                      • Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.

                      • Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.


                      To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.




                      draft saved


                      draft discarded














                      StackExchange.ready(
                      function () {
                      StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fsuperuser.com%2fquestions%2f866934%2fvery-slow-wi-fi-download-speeds-using-a-tp-link-wr841n-1-10th-of-full-ethernet%23new-answer', 'question_page');
                      }
                      );

                      Post as a guest















                      Required, but never shown





















































                      Required, but never shown














                      Required, but never shown












                      Required, but never shown







                      Required, but never shown

































                      Required, but never shown














                      Required, but never shown












                      Required, but never shown







                      Required, but never shown







                      Popular posts from this blog

                      How to make a Squid Proxy server?

                      第一次世界大戦

                      Touch on Surface Book