okay to use fatter/longer extension cord than spec'd for power tools?












3















I want to buy an electric chainsaw, rated at 15A (125V). Manufacturer specifies max 50' extension cord (no gauge spec). There are 50' 14 gauge extension cords that are rated at 15A/125V. Could I use a 100' 10 or 12 gauge cord? Is the basic problem just heat + power loss due to resistance in the cord? Any measurements I could do with my volt meter to make sure it will work okay?



I plan to use chainsaw for short periods of time, and when its cold out, to prevent overheating. The outlet is right below my main panel. Any other tips?



(apologies if this is not the best forum for my question, feel free to suggest a more appropriate forum in comments)










share|improve this question

























  • Tip: chainsaws should run on gasoline, unless it's mounted on a pole and so small it wouldn't matter what cord you're using.

    – Mazura
    3 hours ago











  • I like simplicity and I don't need the power of a gas engine. Gas saws require fresh gas, "winterizing" plus more if you're unlucky.

    – TimCO
    1 hour ago











  • What size extension cord gauge would I need for a 12 amp electric mower if the cord is 250 feet long?

    – Mazura
    53 mins ago
















3















I want to buy an electric chainsaw, rated at 15A (125V). Manufacturer specifies max 50' extension cord (no gauge spec). There are 50' 14 gauge extension cords that are rated at 15A/125V. Could I use a 100' 10 or 12 gauge cord? Is the basic problem just heat + power loss due to resistance in the cord? Any measurements I could do with my volt meter to make sure it will work okay?



I plan to use chainsaw for short periods of time, and when its cold out, to prevent overheating. The outlet is right below my main panel. Any other tips?



(apologies if this is not the best forum for my question, feel free to suggest a more appropriate forum in comments)










share|improve this question

























  • Tip: chainsaws should run on gasoline, unless it's mounted on a pole and so small it wouldn't matter what cord you're using.

    – Mazura
    3 hours ago











  • I like simplicity and I don't need the power of a gas engine. Gas saws require fresh gas, "winterizing" plus more if you're unlucky.

    – TimCO
    1 hour ago











  • What size extension cord gauge would I need for a 12 amp electric mower if the cord is 250 feet long?

    – Mazura
    53 mins ago














3












3








3








I want to buy an electric chainsaw, rated at 15A (125V). Manufacturer specifies max 50' extension cord (no gauge spec). There are 50' 14 gauge extension cords that are rated at 15A/125V. Could I use a 100' 10 or 12 gauge cord? Is the basic problem just heat + power loss due to resistance in the cord? Any measurements I could do with my volt meter to make sure it will work okay?



I plan to use chainsaw for short periods of time, and when its cold out, to prevent overheating. The outlet is right below my main panel. Any other tips?



(apologies if this is not the best forum for my question, feel free to suggest a more appropriate forum in comments)










share|improve this question
















I want to buy an electric chainsaw, rated at 15A (125V). Manufacturer specifies max 50' extension cord (no gauge spec). There are 50' 14 gauge extension cords that are rated at 15A/125V. Could I use a 100' 10 or 12 gauge cord? Is the basic problem just heat + power loss due to resistance in the cord? Any measurements I could do with my volt meter to make sure it will work okay?



I plan to use chainsaw for short periods of time, and when its cold out, to prevent overheating. The outlet is right below my main panel. Any other tips?



(apologies if this is not the best forum for my question, feel free to suggest a more appropriate forum in comments)







powertools extension-cord






share|improve this question















share|improve this question













share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 6 hours ago







TimCO

















asked 7 hours ago









TimCOTimCO

313




313













  • Tip: chainsaws should run on gasoline, unless it's mounted on a pole and so small it wouldn't matter what cord you're using.

    – Mazura
    3 hours ago











  • I like simplicity and I don't need the power of a gas engine. Gas saws require fresh gas, "winterizing" plus more if you're unlucky.

    – TimCO
    1 hour ago











  • What size extension cord gauge would I need for a 12 amp electric mower if the cord is 250 feet long?

    – Mazura
    53 mins ago



















  • Tip: chainsaws should run on gasoline, unless it's mounted on a pole and so small it wouldn't matter what cord you're using.

    – Mazura
    3 hours ago











  • I like simplicity and I don't need the power of a gas engine. Gas saws require fresh gas, "winterizing" plus more if you're unlucky.

    – TimCO
    1 hour ago











  • What size extension cord gauge would I need for a 12 amp electric mower if the cord is 250 feet long?

    – Mazura
    53 mins ago

















Tip: chainsaws should run on gasoline, unless it's mounted on a pole and so small it wouldn't matter what cord you're using.

– Mazura
3 hours ago





Tip: chainsaws should run on gasoline, unless it's mounted on a pole and so small it wouldn't matter what cord you're using.

– Mazura
3 hours ago













I like simplicity and I don't need the power of a gas engine. Gas saws require fresh gas, "winterizing" plus more if you're unlucky.

– TimCO
1 hour ago





I like simplicity and I don't need the power of a gas engine. Gas saws require fresh gas, "winterizing" plus more if you're unlucky.

– TimCO
1 hour ago













What size extension cord gauge would I need for a 12 amp electric mower if the cord is 250 feet long?

– Mazura
53 mins ago





What size extension cord gauge would I need for a 12 amp electric mower if the cord is 250 feet long?

– Mazura
53 mins ago










2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes


















7














The issue here is voltage drop in the circuit supplying the saw. The saw's motor will not run well if the voltage is too low. The voltage drops over the length of the extension cord; the longer the cord, the greater the drop. However, a heavier gauge cord will have less voltage drop than a lighter gauge cord.



(Voltage drop is a factor right at the receptacle, even without an extension cord; the gauge and length of the wiring from the panel to the receptacle, the load on that branch circuit, the load on your whole service, the gauge and length of your service conductors / feeders, heck even the load on neighbors service can affect your voltage at the receptacle.)



You didn't mention the manufacturer specifying a gauge for the 50' max extension cord, let's assume they figure you'll use a 14 gauge cord, and let's assume the saw draws a full 15A (which it probably does not). The voltage drop for that 14 gauge cord at 15 amps is about 3.79 volts. A 12 gauge cord 100' long at 15A will drop about 4.75 volts. So I'd feel completely confident with a 12 gauge 100' cord - one volt is negligible.



If you really want to test the voltage drop, testing at the end of the cord doesn't tell you anything because you need to see what the voltage is under load. If you really want to test this, and if you can do this safely, you could plug a receptacle splitter or power tap (rated for the load, of course) and check voltage while someone runs the saw full bore cutting wood.






share|improve this answer





















  • 1





    good point about the splitter, can test once I buy a cord. Added lack of gauge spec to my question.

    – TimCO
    6 hours ago






  • 2





    Note that "full bore" here means doing work (cutting a log). Just revving it results in relatively little current draw.

    – isherwood
    6 hours ago






  • 1





    I would suggest the P3 Kill A Watt. I'm pretty sure it would make these measurements trivial.

    – MonkeyZeus
    5 hours ago








  • 1





    I think the mfg's state an arbatary 50' to cover there butts. Yes voltage drop can be a problem with a long cord, I would look at the draw of the saw and as long the drop is less than 5% base my cord size on FLA of the motor. the chain saw will not be a continuous draw or I have never seen a chainsaw at full load for more than a few minutes at a time other than that I fully agree.+ also with @isherwoods single cord suggestion+

    – Ed Beal
    5 hours ago











  • "The voltage drop for that cord will be about 7.5 volts at a full 15 amps. A 12 gauge cord at 100' at a full 15A will drop about 4.75 volts." - Your numbers seem off; #12 wire is only about 150% the cross-sectional area of #14, yet the cord is double the length. There's no way it'd have a lower voltage drop. Your numbers match a 100' length for both the #12 and the #14 cables. For the 50' #14, the voltage drop should be half your value, about 3.79V.

    – marcelm
    4 hours ago





















6














Yes, the critical issue is voltage drop due to resistance, which is both a function of conductor size and plug connections. One 100' #12 cord is better than two 50' #12 cords, for example, because there will be fewer contact connections.



I wouldn't hesitate to use your saw on a 100' #12 or #10 cord, assuming that you're not already at the end of a very long outlet circuit as well. You can check voltage across the plug contacts to make sure you're within about 5% of nominal (120v). As brhans pointed out in the comments, this would need to be done while the tool is under load.






share|improve this answer





















  • 2





    Checking the voltage at the end of the cord will only give meaningful results if it's done while the saw is in use. Unloaded there'll be no measurable voltage drop over the length of the cord.

    – brhans
    7 hours ago













  • "I wouldn't hesitate" +1. The only times I've experienced voltage drops is when there's several hundred feet of crappy cords strung together.

    – Mazura
    46 mins ago











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2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes








2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes









active

oldest

votes






active

oldest

votes









7














The issue here is voltage drop in the circuit supplying the saw. The saw's motor will not run well if the voltage is too low. The voltage drops over the length of the extension cord; the longer the cord, the greater the drop. However, a heavier gauge cord will have less voltage drop than a lighter gauge cord.



(Voltage drop is a factor right at the receptacle, even without an extension cord; the gauge and length of the wiring from the panel to the receptacle, the load on that branch circuit, the load on your whole service, the gauge and length of your service conductors / feeders, heck even the load on neighbors service can affect your voltage at the receptacle.)



You didn't mention the manufacturer specifying a gauge for the 50' max extension cord, let's assume they figure you'll use a 14 gauge cord, and let's assume the saw draws a full 15A (which it probably does not). The voltage drop for that 14 gauge cord at 15 amps is about 3.79 volts. A 12 gauge cord 100' long at 15A will drop about 4.75 volts. So I'd feel completely confident with a 12 gauge 100' cord - one volt is negligible.



If you really want to test the voltage drop, testing at the end of the cord doesn't tell you anything because you need to see what the voltage is under load. If you really want to test this, and if you can do this safely, you could plug a receptacle splitter or power tap (rated for the load, of course) and check voltage while someone runs the saw full bore cutting wood.






share|improve this answer





















  • 1





    good point about the splitter, can test once I buy a cord. Added lack of gauge spec to my question.

    – TimCO
    6 hours ago






  • 2





    Note that "full bore" here means doing work (cutting a log). Just revving it results in relatively little current draw.

    – isherwood
    6 hours ago






  • 1





    I would suggest the P3 Kill A Watt. I'm pretty sure it would make these measurements trivial.

    – MonkeyZeus
    5 hours ago








  • 1





    I think the mfg's state an arbatary 50' to cover there butts. Yes voltage drop can be a problem with a long cord, I would look at the draw of the saw and as long the drop is less than 5% base my cord size on FLA of the motor. the chain saw will not be a continuous draw or I have never seen a chainsaw at full load for more than a few minutes at a time other than that I fully agree.+ also with @isherwoods single cord suggestion+

    – Ed Beal
    5 hours ago











  • "The voltage drop for that cord will be about 7.5 volts at a full 15 amps. A 12 gauge cord at 100' at a full 15A will drop about 4.75 volts." - Your numbers seem off; #12 wire is only about 150% the cross-sectional area of #14, yet the cord is double the length. There's no way it'd have a lower voltage drop. Your numbers match a 100' length for both the #12 and the #14 cables. For the 50' #14, the voltage drop should be half your value, about 3.79V.

    – marcelm
    4 hours ago


















7














The issue here is voltage drop in the circuit supplying the saw. The saw's motor will not run well if the voltage is too low. The voltage drops over the length of the extension cord; the longer the cord, the greater the drop. However, a heavier gauge cord will have less voltage drop than a lighter gauge cord.



(Voltage drop is a factor right at the receptacle, even without an extension cord; the gauge and length of the wiring from the panel to the receptacle, the load on that branch circuit, the load on your whole service, the gauge and length of your service conductors / feeders, heck even the load on neighbors service can affect your voltage at the receptacle.)



You didn't mention the manufacturer specifying a gauge for the 50' max extension cord, let's assume they figure you'll use a 14 gauge cord, and let's assume the saw draws a full 15A (which it probably does not). The voltage drop for that 14 gauge cord at 15 amps is about 3.79 volts. A 12 gauge cord 100' long at 15A will drop about 4.75 volts. So I'd feel completely confident with a 12 gauge 100' cord - one volt is negligible.



If you really want to test the voltage drop, testing at the end of the cord doesn't tell you anything because you need to see what the voltage is under load. If you really want to test this, and if you can do this safely, you could plug a receptacle splitter or power tap (rated for the load, of course) and check voltage while someone runs the saw full bore cutting wood.






share|improve this answer





















  • 1





    good point about the splitter, can test once I buy a cord. Added lack of gauge spec to my question.

    – TimCO
    6 hours ago






  • 2





    Note that "full bore" here means doing work (cutting a log). Just revving it results in relatively little current draw.

    – isherwood
    6 hours ago






  • 1





    I would suggest the P3 Kill A Watt. I'm pretty sure it would make these measurements trivial.

    – MonkeyZeus
    5 hours ago








  • 1





    I think the mfg's state an arbatary 50' to cover there butts. Yes voltage drop can be a problem with a long cord, I would look at the draw of the saw and as long the drop is less than 5% base my cord size on FLA of the motor. the chain saw will not be a continuous draw or I have never seen a chainsaw at full load for more than a few minutes at a time other than that I fully agree.+ also with @isherwoods single cord suggestion+

    – Ed Beal
    5 hours ago











  • "The voltage drop for that cord will be about 7.5 volts at a full 15 amps. A 12 gauge cord at 100' at a full 15A will drop about 4.75 volts." - Your numbers seem off; #12 wire is only about 150% the cross-sectional area of #14, yet the cord is double the length. There's no way it'd have a lower voltage drop. Your numbers match a 100' length for both the #12 and the #14 cables. For the 50' #14, the voltage drop should be half your value, about 3.79V.

    – marcelm
    4 hours ago
















7












7








7







The issue here is voltage drop in the circuit supplying the saw. The saw's motor will not run well if the voltage is too low. The voltage drops over the length of the extension cord; the longer the cord, the greater the drop. However, a heavier gauge cord will have less voltage drop than a lighter gauge cord.



(Voltage drop is a factor right at the receptacle, even without an extension cord; the gauge and length of the wiring from the panel to the receptacle, the load on that branch circuit, the load on your whole service, the gauge and length of your service conductors / feeders, heck even the load on neighbors service can affect your voltage at the receptacle.)



You didn't mention the manufacturer specifying a gauge for the 50' max extension cord, let's assume they figure you'll use a 14 gauge cord, and let's assume the saw draws a full 15A (which it probably does not). The voltage drop for that 14 gauge cord at 15 amps is about 3.79 volts. A 12 gauge cord 100' long at 15A will drop about 4.75 volts. So I'd feel completely confident with a 12 gauge 100' cord - one volt is negligible.



If you really want to test the voltage drop, testing at the end of the cord doesn't tell you anything because you need to see what the voltage is under load. If you really want to test this, and if you can do this safely, you could plug a receptacle splitter or power tap (rated for the load, of course) and check voltage while someone runs the saw full bore cutting wood.






share|improve this answer















The issue here is voltage drop in the circuit supplying the saw. The saw's motor will not run well if the voltage is too low. The voltage drops over the length of the extension cord; the longer the cord, the greater the drop. However, a heavier gauge cord will have less voltage drop than a lighter gauge cord.



(Voltage drop is a factor right at the receptacle, even without an extension cord; the gauge and length of the wiring from the panel to the receptacle, the load on that branch circuit, the load on your whole service, the gauge and length of your service conductors / feeders, heck even the load on neighbors service can affect your voltage at the receptacle.)



You didn't mention the manufacturer specifying a gauge for the 50' max extension cord, let's assume they figure you'll use a 14 gauge cord, and let's assume the saw draws a full 15A (which it probably does not). The voltage drop for that 14 gauge cord at 15 amps is about 3.79 volts. A 12 gauge cord 100' long at 15A will drop about 4.75 volts. So I'd feel completely confident with a 12 gauge 100' cord - one volt is negligible.



If you really want to test the voltage drop, testing at the end of the cord doesn't tell you anything because you need to see what the voltage is under load. If you really want to test this, and if you can do this safely, you could plug a receptacle splitter or power tap (rated for the load, of course) and check voltage while someone runs the saw full bore cutting wood.







share|improve this answer














share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer








edited 3 hours ago

























answered 7 hours ago









batsplatstersonbatsplatsterson

10.6k11230




10.6k11230








  • 1





    good point about the splitter, can test once I buy a cord. Added lack of gauge spec to my question.

    – TimCO
    6 hours ago






  • 2





    Note that "full bore" here means doing work (cutting a log). Just revving it results in relatively little current draw.

    – isherwood
    6 hours ago






  • 1





    I would suggest the P3 Kill A Watt. I'm pretty sure it would make these measurements trivial.

    – MonkeyZeus
    5 hours ago








  • 1





    I think the mfg's state an arbatary 50' to cover there butts. Yes voltage drop can be a problem with a long cord, I would look at the draw of the saw and as long the drop is less than 5% base my cord size on FLA of the motor. the chain saw will not be a continuous draw or I have never seen a chainsaw at full load for more than a few minutes at a time other than that I fully agree.+ also with @isherwoods single cord suggestion+

    – Ed Beal
    5 hours ago











  • "The voltage drop for that cord will be about 7.5 volts at a full 15 amps. A 12 gauge cord at 100' at a full 15A will drop about 4.75 volts." - Your numbers seem off; #12 wire is only about 150% the cross-sectional area of #14, yet the cord is double the length. There's no way it'd have a lower voltage drop. Your numbers match a 100' length for both the #12 and the #14 cables. For the 50' #14, the voltage drop should be half your value, about 3.79V.

    – marcelm
    4 hours ago
















  • 1





    good point about the splitter, can test once I buy a cord. Added lack of gauge spec to my question.

    – TimCO
    6 hours ago






  • 2





    Note that "full bore" here means doing work (cutting a log). Just revving it results in relatively little current draw.

    – isherwood
    6 hours ago






  • 1





    I would suggest the P3 Kill A Watt. I'm pretty sure it would make these measurements trivial.

    – MonkeyZeus
    5 hours ago








  • 1





    I think the mfg's state an arbatary 50' to cover there butts. Yes voltage drop can be a problem with a long cord, I would look at the draw of the saw and as long the drop is less than 5% base my cord size on FLA of the motor. the chain saw will not be a continuous draw or I have never seen a chainsaw at full load for more than a few minutes at a time other than that I fully agree.+ also with @isherwoods single cord suggestion+

    – Ed Beal
    5 hours ago











  • "The voltage drop for that cord will be about 7.5 volts at a full 15 amps. A 12 gauge cord at 100' at a full 15A will drop about 4.75 volts." - Your numbers seem off; #12 wire is only about 150% the cross-sectional area of #14, yet the cord is double the length. There's no way it'd have a lower voltage drop. Your numbers match a 100' length for both the #12 and the #14 cables. For the 50' #14, the voltage drop should be half your value, about 3.79V.

    – marcelm
    4 hours ago










1




1





good point about the splitter, can test once I buy a cord. Added lack of gauge spec to my question.

– TimCO
6 hours ago





good point about the splitter, can test once I buy a cord. Added lack of gauge spec to my question.

– TimCO
6 hours ago




2




2





Note that "full bore" here means doing work (cutting a log). Just revving it results in relatively little current draw.

– isherwood
6 hours ago





Note that "full bore" here means doing work (cutting a log). Just revving it results in relatively little current draw.

– isherwood
6 hours ago




1




1





I would suggest the P3 Kill A Watt. I'm pretty sure it would make these measurements trivial.

– MonkeyZeus
5 hours ago







I would suggest the P3 Kill A Watt. I'm pretty sure it would make these measurements trivial.

– MonkeyZeus
5 hours ago






1




1





I think the mfg's state an arbatary 50' to cover there butts. Yes voltage drop can be a problem with a long cord, I would look at the draw of the saw and as long the drop is less than 5% base my cord size on FLA of the motor. the chain saw will not be a continuous draw or I have never seen a chainsaw at full load for more than a few minutes at a time other than that I fully agree.+ also with @isherwoods single cord suggestion+

– Ed Beal
5 hours ago





I think the mfg's state an arbatary 50' to cover there butts. Yes voltage drop can be a problem with a long cord, I would look at the draw of the saw and as long the drop is less than 5% base my cord size on FLA of the motor. the chain saw will not be a continuous draw or I have never seen a chainsaw at full load for more than a few minutes at a time other than that I fully agree.+ also with @isherwoods single cord suggestion+

– Ed Beal
5 hours ago













"The voltage drop for that cord will be about 7.5 volts at a full 15 amps. A 12 gauge cord at 100' at a full 15A will drop about 4.75 volts." - Your numbers seem off; #12 wire is only about 150% the cross-sectional area of #14, yet the cord is double the length. There's no way it'd have a lower voltage drop. Your numbers match a 100' length for both the #12 and the #14 cables. For the 50' #14, the voltage drop should be half your value, about 3.79V.

– marcelm
4 hours ago







"The voltage drop for that cord will be about 7.5 volts at a full 15 amps. A 12 gauge cord at 100' at a full 15A will drop about 4.75 volts." - Your numbers seem off; #12 wire is only about 150% the cross-sectional area of #14, yet the cord is double the length. There's no way it'd have a lower voltage drop. Your numbers match a 100' length for both the #12 and the #14 cables. For the 50' #14, the voltage drop should be half your value, about 3.79V.

– marcelm
4 hours ago















6














Yes, the critical issue is voltage drop due to resistance, which is both a function of conductor size and plug connections. One 100' #12 cord is better than two 50' #12 cords, for example, because there will be fewer contact connections.



I wouldn't hesitate to use your saw on a 100' #12 or #10 cord, assuming that you're not already at the end of a very long outlet circuit as well. You can check voltage across the plug contacts to make sure you're within about 5% of nominal (120v). As brhans pointed out in the comments, this would need to be done while the tool is under load.






share|improve this answer





















  • 2





    Checking the voltage at the end of the cord will only give meaningful results if it's done while the saw is in use. Unloaded there'll be no measurable voltage drop over the length of the cord.

    – brhans
    7 hours ago













  • "I wouldn't hesitate" +1. The only times I've experienced voltage drops is when there's several hundred feet of crappy cords strung together.

    – Mazura
    46 mins ago
















6














Yes, the critical issue is voltage drop due to resistance, which is both a function of conductor size and plug connections. One 100' #12 cord is better than two 50' #12 cords, for example, because there will be fewer contact connections.



I wouldn't hesitate to use your saw on a 100' #12 or #10 cord, assuming that you're not already at the end of a very long outlet circuit as well. You can check voltage across the plug contacts to make sure you're within about 5% of nominal (120v). As brhans pointed out in the comments, this would need to be done while the tool is under load.






share|improve this answer





















  • 2





    Checking the voltage at the end of the cord will only give meaningful results if it's done while the saw is in use. Unloaded there'll be no measurable voltage drop over the length of the cord.

    – brhans
    7 hours ago













  • "I wouldn't hesitate" +1. The only times I've experienced voltage drops is when there's several hundred feet of crappy cords strung together.

    – Mazura
    46 mins ago














6












6








6







Yes, the critical issue is voltage drop due to resistance, which is both a function of conductor size and plug connections. One 100' #12 cord is better than two 50' #12 cords, for example, because there will be fewer contact connections.



I wouldn't hesitate to use your saw on a 100' #12 or #10 cord, assuming that you're not already at the end of a very long outlet circuit as well. You can check voltage across the plug contacts to make sure you're within about 5% of nominal (120v). As brhans pointed out in the comments, this would need to be done while the tool is under load.






share|improve this answer















Yes, the critical issue is voltage drop due to resistance, which is both a function of conductor size and plug connections. One 100' #12 cord is better than two 50' #12 cords, for example, because there will be fewer contact connections.



I wouldn't hesitate to use your saw on a 100' #12 or #10 cord, assuming that you're not already at the end of a very long outlet circuit as well. You can check voltage across the plug contacts to make sure you're within about 5% of nominal (120v). As brhans pointed out in the comments, this would need to be done while the tool is under load.







share|improve this answer














share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer








edited 6 hours ago

























answered 7 hours ago









isherwoodisherwood

46.7k455120




46.7k455120








  • 2





    Checking the voltage at the end of the cord will only give meaningful results if it's done while the saw is in use. Unloaded there'll be no measurable voltage drop over the length of the cord.

    – brhans
    7 hours ago













  • "I wouldn't hesitate" +1. The only times I've experienced voltage drops is when there's several hundred feet of crappy cords strung together.

    – Mazura
    46 mins ago














  • 2





    Checking the voltage at the end of the cord will only give meaningful results if it's done while the saw is in use. Unloaded there'll be no measurable voltage drop over the length of the cord.

    – brhans
    7 hours ago













  • "I wouldn't hesitate" +1. The only times I've experienced voltage drops is when there's several hundred feet of crappy cords strung together.

    – Mazura
    46 mins ago








2




2





Checking the voltage at the end of the cord will only give meaningful results if it's done while the saw is in use. Unloaded there'll be no measurable voltage drop over the length of the cord.

– brhans
7 hours ago







Checking the voltage at the end of the cord will only give meaningful results if it's done while the saw is in use. Unloaded there'll be no measurable voltage drop over the length of the cord.

– brhans
7 hours ago















"I wouldn't hesitate" +1. The only times I've experienced voltage drops is when there's several hundred feet of crappy cords strung together.

– Mazura
46 mins ago





"I wouldn't hesitate" +1. The only times I've experienced voltage drops is when there's several hundred feet of crappy cords strung together.

– Mazura
46 mins ago


















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